By now the world knows (even the seagulls steer clear) not to mess with Darla Neugebauer–aka Marcy’s Diner—the empress of the hash-house hootenanny starring an old toughie at the flat top, a crying baby and an oblivious millennial mommy, who collectively trounced the newswires and social media pages like a hailstorm of pebbles across the globe (well, maybe not mainland China).  The event has even inspired several new dishes on the menu like 3 Screaming Baby Pancakes and Liberal Parent Omelet (or Entitled Eggs Benedict?).

And, for better or worse, it’s made the diner and its proprietress instant stars (mom didn’t make the grade, coming off too arrogantly namby-pamby). Nearby Becky’s Diner may have been feeling the pinch, however, as tourists and uninitiated locals camped in front of the Oak Street digs instead for a look see.

Lovable greasy spoon diner is all the rage in Portland at Marcy’s

And for pure ridiculousness, offers have been pouring in for Neugebauer, from a TV cooking show to a reality sit-com.

“Who’d want to watch me slinging hash all day? “quipped Darla.

Darla at her beloved flat top–a one-woman dynamo

Local coverage included the Portland Press Herald hoping to cash in on all the attention as they did with my little debacle with the irascible Arlin Smith of the Honey Paw Empire (see Blogger Banned and Contretemps).  The paper gave it the old one-two but ultimately their coverage was typical. Stories like these get a lot of attention and probably gave the newspaper more hits than Pearl Harbor.

Locals flock to the counter; tourists usually prefer the booths

Marcy’s serves ordinary food, nothing sustainably sourced coming off the flat top.  Ersatz eggs comprise the omelets, processed flour and ultra-pasteurized milk go into the batter for Neugebauer’s stately pancakes as large as truck tires.

French toast made with Texas toast and blueberry pancakes

I got the last stool standing yesterday, Sunday morning at 7:25, and had the bologna omelet (stuffed with julienned Oscar Meyer) with extra crispy hash browns and grilled Texas toast.  The melted butter flows over everything like lava melt.  It’s all wonderful greasy spoon grub, not so easy to find nowadays when most everything—at least in some parts of Maine—must be artisanal goodness derived from the depths of locavore shenanigans.

Bologna omelet with American cheese; crispy home fries

However you weigh the pros and cons of this event, the mother —and father—were guilty of not controlling their child who they seemed to ignore as the toddler wailed for 40 minutes running.  And perhaps Darla should have been more demure in her admonishment of mom’s inability to mother.

The menu posting says it all; stickers for sale at $2 each

Neugebauer has always been a lovable loose cannon, a character ready to roll with the punches and one-liners.  But now she’s in her element–as outspoken as Don Rickles on a Las Vegas stage.  She’s screamingly funny, her biting wit rife with expletives.  And her food is just as gutsy. The pancakes have staying power.

Breakfast of champions: pancakes with a side of ham, hash browns and eggs

The hash (both potatoes and corned beef) are classic.  The muffins are colossal.  It’s all a certain type of down- home culinary bonhomie, recalling the era of short-order cooks, slinging hash mixed in with salty bons mots and a side of ketchup.

All photos by John Golden; cover photo (Darla speaks out) courtesy of Marcy’s Diner