The Zeitgeist of farm-to-table American cuisine at Francine Bistro prevailed long before the term was tossed around everywhere. In fact, it’s virtually second nature to chef and proprietor Brian Hill whose Camden bistro remains a dining destination since 2003. He employs not just the familiar fusing of farm-to-fork but, rather, each dish is a study in simplicity, of copacetic flavors that spring from his magical well of culinary methodology. In a word the food is delicious!
Francine Bistro at night
It’s also one of the most popular restaurants in this tony coastal village, which now boasts other hot spots such as the superb Natalie’s up the street at the Camden Harbour Inn (see next week’s review), Pig and Poet at the Whitehall (see July 24 review) or at neighboring Rockport and Rockland, particularly Hill’s other restaurant, Shepherd’s Pie.When I was there earlier this week (my second visit in two weeks) I ordered the pan roasted chicken, a pretty basic dish—but not here. To me if the basics of roast chicken do not come off well in a restaurant then everything else served tends to follow suit.
Top, Chef Brian Hill; the crush of diners waiting to be seated; the crowd at the bar and tables
Of course it was juicy, not a dry piece of meat anywhere on the breast, leg and thigh. It sat in a sauce of smoked-mushroom syrup with the juices of pan-roasted cherry tomatoes adding a lovely reddish tinge and touch of sweetness. But like hidden treasure, the real surprise was the ricotta, from the Rockport dairy Lakin’s Gorges, which added a richly luxurious texture to the flesh. It was stuffed under the skin laying sweet, creamy kisses all over the breast meat. The leg and thigh were equally scrumptious, there to loll in the delicious pan sauce soaking up its goodness and ultimately to roll the wonderful house-made bread in the exquisite juices.
The pan roasted chicken is a superb dish with its mushroom syrup, ricotta and tomatoes
The meal started off with a corn soup, very creamy with hints of basil and a sweet rain of wild chanterelle mushrooms.
Creamy corn soup with wild chanterelle mushrooms and basil
Many of the area chefs get their produce at Beth’s Farm Market in Warren and other farms; she’s always the first with peas, new potatoes, strawberries and corn, and on occasion I’ve seen Hill at the market stocking up as he probably did for the corn in this soup.
The dessert menu is a simple list of what’s local, usually a berries in homemade ice cream or baked goods. That night, however, there wasn’t anything on the list that I was in the mood for, but asked if I could have a scoop of the strawberry jam ice cream that was featured in another dessert with another scoop of chocolate brownie ice cream moistened with a minty syrup. A great combination.
Chocolate brownie ice cream; strawberry jam and chocolate brownie ice cream coup
Before Francine opened on Chestnut Street (over ten years ago), the space was a ratty old bicycle shop that, as I remember, was fairly popular in this touristy village. When Hill transformed the space he retained much of the rusticity of the old building. The bar takes center stage as you enter, and tables along the side, the front windows and along the rear make up the dining room, with peeks into the open kitchen where most of what’s being prepared is visible. On a balmy night you can also sit rather romantically and quietly out on the porch.
Artisanal bread made at the Francine kitchen
The service is extremely professional. Even on busy nights you’re well taken care of. Manning the bar is Chip who always knows what wine to pair with your food.
Even when the restaurant is at capacity, the kitchen keeps pace
Two very popular entrees, the herb roast lobster and roast local halibut
The prior week I enjoyed a wonderful dinner the night after I’d been to Pig and Poet. I knew exactly what I wanted: It’s one of Hill’s great dishes–the slow-smoked pork ribs laced with peanuts and salted caramel. I can’t begin to tell you how great this dish is. The meat is smoked and lathered with the peanuts and salted caramel bathing the melt-in-your mouth ribs in a sweet-savory amalgam of flavor and texture. It’s topped with a gremolata of green onions and moistened by the pan sauce that is pure heaven.
The incredible slow-smoked ribs
I had way too much food that evening because I added a side dish of the zucchini salad—a towering dome of various zucchinis that are shredded and delightfully mixed with mint, capers, hot pepper and pecorino As a first course the sweet pea soup made from just picked local peas and shoots was served with crostini spread with tapenade. The contrast in flavors was magical.
Pea soup with crostini topped with olive tapenade
Along the way Hill sent out a little cup of the corn soup–first of the season–with mushrooms; this version was topped with a mushroom foam. I think I liked it better than the one I had earlier this week. But that’s really splitting hairs.
Corn soup under a mushroom foam and zucchini salad with mint
Their homemade Ice cream remains a staple on the dessert menu and this time I had two whole scoops of that fabulous chocolate brownie ice cream with mint.
Dining on the porch or in the dining room the mood is casual at Francine
There’s something about Francine that is both contemporary and country rustic: The food is pure and unadulterated. Camden regulars clamor to get in as well as summer visitors anxious to see what all the fuss is about. In a way, Francine Bistro is like Camden’s version of Portland’s Fore Street—a serious classic for locally sourced food. It rarely disappoints.
Francine Bistro, 55 Chestnut, Camden, ME 207-230-0083 www.francinebistro.com
Rating: 5 very fine stars
Ambiance: country chic
Noise: lively
Service: well tended
$$$: moderately expensive
