July 2015

When you’re on an island you have to adapt to what’s available. I bring a lot with me such as a Cuisinart, my favorite rolling pin, spices, good butter, a hand mixer and even stored items such as last year’s sour cherries, which I had stashed in my freezer.

Grazing sheep at Sheep Meadow Farm on Crabtree Point, North Haven

Grazing sheep at Sheep Meadow Farm on Crabtree Point, North Haven

After that you’re at the mercy of what’s available.  Fortunately for the locavore minded, North Haven offers a plentiful lot of local provender within limits.  When, for instance, I bought eggs from Foggy Meadows Farm I hadn’t realized that they were duck eggs, which farmer Doreen Cabot uses in most everything instead of chicken eggs.  I beat them into the batter for a pound cake, thinking they were chicken eggs until I looked at the box that was clearly marked “duck eggs.” I’ve made this pound cake countless times and have featured it here (see Pound Cake for recipe).  But with the richness of these eggs, with their large yolks, this was the best version ever, making the cake extremely fluffy. I’m totally converted and will use, as Cabot does, duck eggs in baking and custards for ice cream.

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On 300 acres of sprawling meadow and woods cascading down to the water’s edge, Turner Farm is the mainstay for produce, beef, pork and cheese  of exquisite quality from the tender nurturing by the farm’s growing practices.  It helps to have such conservation-land-conscious keepers tending to  such a farm. It had been fallow for years until owners US Representative Chellie Pingree, who has deep roots on the island, and her husband, financier Donald Sussman, revived this  historic island property to all its glory.

The barn at Turner Farm

The barn at Turner Farm

The produce finds its way into the kitchens of Nebo Lodge, owned by the Pingree-Sussmans and in high season even the local little island supermarket carries the bounty from their fields.

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When you’re at a precious summer colony, whether on any of Maine’s iconic islands or in coastal communities on the mainland, local dining is a key element of time well spent.  On North Haven that puts you squarely at Nebo Lodge and its superb kitchen with cook Amanda Hallowell at the helm.

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Destination North Haven, Maine, was not immune to the flush of July 4th weekenders on Thursday jamming the lines at the Rockland Ferry Terminal that takes travelers to North Haven or Vinalhaven, the two very distinctive islands along the Fox Island Thoroughfare of Penobscot Bay.

That was my destination to spend time there for the next 10 days and fortunately the North Haven boat, which crosses the bay only 3 times a day (compared to Vinalhaven’s 6 crossings) is much less crowded for travelers and residents to the smaller island.

Boarding the ferry for North Haven

Boarding the ferry for North Haven

Setting up a house on an island has its idiosyncrasies, and it’s best not to make assumptions.  The local store is fairly well stocked with groceries and food, with frequent deliveries from Beth’s Farm Market in Warren for berries and produce, or meats from Curtis Meats as well as the produce from the island’s Turner Farm. Though the shelves empty out fast by the weekend.

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Note: Because of the extended July 4th weekend, Friday Dining is appearing today.

Sometimes I feel like the churlish critic who ate Portland, Maine, or is it eating me? No matter because when you come upon such a restaurant as Tempo Dulu, in the utterly glamorous new iteration of the Danforth Inn where it’s magnificently housed, it makes nearly all other dining experiences that you thought were so good tame by comparison.  That’s not to say that dinner at some of our  most revered restaurants like Central Provisions, Back Bay Grill or Fore Street is not duly fabulous.  But it’s a combination of the exotic blending of cuisine—Indonesian—taking place in an absolutely gorgeous setting that makes the distinctive shoals of fine dining  so singularly superb here.

Curried egg and the Wayang cocktail

Curried egg and the Wayang cocktail

The waiters are all handsome with Ipana-perfect smiles and beautifully attired.  The principal rooms where cocktails are served shimmer like gold dust so worldly it could host cads with escorts or dowagers in diamonds.

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