Of all the new restaurants that have opened in Portland in the last several years what niche markets haven’t been filled beyond the surfeit of small plates, new American bistro, southern BBQ, Asian, European and ethnic?
So I ask this: Is the turn for nostalgic dining the next wave? To wit: a soda fountain on Congress Street is in the works but no torqued up venue for middling country club fare has shown itself even among our toniest private clubs. Are we ready, though, for the return of mixologist hoopla from the 1950s?
The bar at Crooner’s and Cocktails
That’s where Crooners and Cocktails has tread with an attempt at decanting the supper clubs of the past, from the Eisenhower and Kennedy eras where stylish diners would ascend into an upscale version of something slightly off beat.
At Crooners, Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra ditties play over the sound system. A flat screen TV hangs over the bar with the best of Turner Classic Movies playing, on mute, 40s and 50s melodramas and film noir celluloids
Crooners bar high tops
But don’t expect to find a menu to match the mood at Crooners. Where’s the double loin lamb chops, tournedos Rossini, Salisbury steak, sole almondine, pork chops, pasta primavera? Instead one is left to fiddle with the kind of mish-mosh that pays tribute to updated Continental fare that’s no better nor worse than what you’d expect.
One highlight was the burning hot crusty rolls that are brought to the table with a butter spread infused with garlic and honey. It’s delicious.
The room is dark—very dark like a supper club should be. Yet I half expected plushy tufted red banquettes to line the walls of this narrow room instead of the high tops. There are tables up front with starched white linen cloths and a few large tables in the rear of the restaurant.
The front dining area
The first (and maybe the only one) unfortunate dish was the lobster stew. Here was a bowl filled with a thick burnt orange soup that actually tasted OK with its swirls of olive oil and herbs set in a decorative pattern. But any resemblance to the classic stew was way off base.
Lobster stew and Caesar salad
A salad with skin on anchovies looked pretty but my friend who ordered it thought it was too complicated. It was billed as a Caesar with Brussels sprouts, Romaine, smoked tomatoes, Parmesan crisps, anchovies and croutons. I thought it was tasty if a bit convoluted, too much going on. A classic prep would have been so much better.
We ordered cocktails from a list that had such intriguing names as the Dean Martin Flame of Love Martini (vodka, dry sherry with a flamed orange peel) or the Boulevardier with bourbon, Campari, and sweet vermouth. Simple imbibers, we had plain old Stoli on the rocks, two drinks that came in glassware not much bigger than a measuring jigger. For our second round we asked for bigger glasses, which were appropriately sized cocktail vessels.
The menu, however, is brief with such offerings as pan seared beef filet and monk fish among some of the dishes.
Confit of leg and seared breast
I enjoyed a confit leg of chicken and pan seared breast bathed in Sriracha honey with an under prop of Brussels sprouts (again) and bacon and corn succotash. But the truffle and cheddar mashed potatoes were outrageously salty.
Pan-seared pork
My dinner mate’s dish of pan-seared pork cut like a flatiron steak was tender and juicy but lacked flavor even though it had been steeped in a citrus marinade.
Berry sorbet palate cleanser
The kitchen also serves a bistro menu with simple items like oysters on the half shell and burgers and stays open until 1:00 AM. There’s also a Sunday brunch.
As the evening progressed the small room filled up. The bar was crowded, the ten count of tables full front and back including the high tops along the wall. The room started to buzz as the evening grew late, but we left without dessert and decided to have a night cap at the Cumberland Club, which effects an elegant mood of moderne in its glorious historic space.
Still Crooner’s and Cocktails has its charms–a good mood for something different. This place has legs, and all it needs is a classic pump to lead the way.
Crooners and Cocktails, 90 Exchange St., Portland, ME 207-536-0049 www.croonersandcocktails.com
Rating: 2 3/4 to 3 stars (but A for ingenuity)
Ambiance: Swell
Noise Level: Moderate
Service: Good
$$$ moderately expensive
