We all have our favorite clam shacks and lobster pounds but one that sets itself apart is the Slipway in Thomaston.  The sum of its parts is so much more complex than the typical fried food havens with their waterfront settings. We set out for it on Saturday morning, leaving behind a sunny Portland only to arrive in Thomaston where the storm clouds hung heavily in the sky emitting a fine mist throughout the day.

                                                                        On a misty, cloudy Saturday, the Slipway dock is closed

Because of the weather the dining dock, which spans 120 feet into the mouth of the Saint George Giver, was closed.  In good weather during lunch or dinner you sit at any of the umbrella picnic tables; though the choice spots are at the end of the dock where several round tables are set up next to the wet bar. You feel as though you’re about ready to set sail.

So we settled inside where a mostly local, if not trendy hipster crowd convened.  The inside dining rooms all have great views of the water and the rustic post and beam architecture add so much authenticity.

                                                                        Inside, the views over the river are still panoramic

Owner-chef  Scott Yakavenko with long-time sous chef Bill Zyblut prepare carefully made fare that easily qualifies as the best fried clams, scallops and oysters anywhere.  Even the French fries that fill the dinner baskets are crisp and well salted.  Also, don’t miss the various dipping sauces which are  not just a lot of ketchup concoctions but rather  well-spiced versions of aioli like chipotle lime that’s paired with the monkfish nuggets or ginger shallot sauce that’s complements the fried oysters.  Besides steamed lobster there are various salads topped with the freshest local fish and lots of interesting sides and snacks.  A particular favorite is the popcorn shrimp.

                                                          Scallops perfectly coated and fried; creamy Cole slaw

Still the main reason to go is for the terrific fried shell fish.  Much of the food is local, and the kitchen uses peanut oil, well filtered, in the kitchen fryolaters, and these billowy fried mounds of shellfish glisten in the basket like treasures from the sea.

Excellent fried clams with crisp, well seasoned fries

The Slipway, 24 Public Landing, Thomaston, Maine 207-354-4155  www.maine-slipway.com

Rating: 5 stars

Ambiance: Contemporary clam-shack-lobster-pound fare served on pretty waterfront setting

Service: Young wait staff does the job well

Tables: Casual setting on dining dock and screened in porch and glass dining rooms inside

$$$: Moderate