The Portland branch of South Portland’s beloved Taco Trio is newly located along the spine of one of the most unforgiving roadways in the city.  Other than in the middle of the night or weekends, trolling the labyrinth of lights and desultory turning lanes of Forest Avenue, aka Route 302, is the proverbial nightmare.

From downtown Portland the second  Taco Trio is over 4 miles away in the Riverton neighborhood.  It’s housed in the former finite glory of Anna’s Variety, one of those convenience stores that was typical along this disparate strip.

Order counter, the dining area and two tacos at $4 each: pollo y mole and el pastor

Order counter, the dining area and two tacos at $4 each: pollo y mole and el pastor

When it was Anna’s the small parking area in front of the shop was never full.  In its new iteration, there wasn’t a space to be found among the 15 or so spots when I arrived around lunchtime.  As it turned out half the patronage was there to pick up orders to go while others sat at tables and counters.

Casual seating at tables and counters; line forms at the right to order and pick up

Casual seating at tables and counters; line forms at the right to order and pick up

The place was a bit disorganized, but I grant them that peccadillo since it was the second day of operation.  There’s a woman at the cash register who takes your order, but she’s also obliged to answer the phone for take-out—two tasks that can’t happen simultaneously.  So it’s a bit of a wait.

The food is more or less the same as the South Portland original, though the menu isn’t quite fleshed out as much.  For now look for tacos, burritos and quesadillas.

For those of us who live on the peninsula, the South Portland taqueria is much closer and more convenient.  But the Riverton locale is certainly a godsend to those who live or work nearby.

Taco Trio, 1706 Forest Ave., Portland, ME  207-536-1395   www.taco-trio.com

Rating: 3 stars (for now)

Ambiance: very casual

Tables: bright orange square tables for 4 and counters along the wall

Noise: moderate

$$$: cheap with $4 tacos