The chatter on Roustabout–set to open sometime this fall along Washington Avenue (East Bayside’s  neo-hipster iteration of Middle Street’s  restaurant row)–is that it will feature Italian-American cuisine or, as later amended, a modern-day version thereof.  I’ve been looking forward to getting carefully crafted veal Parm, lasagna, spaghetti with Sunday sauce and meatballs.  But now I’m not so sure if that’s what the place will deliver. (Early menus posted on Instagram several months ago showed a menu of rustic Italian dishes.)

Instead, if it’s any indication, the extraordinary meal I had at this fledgling’s latest collaborative popup dinner on Tuesday night at Piccolo (what a collaboration!), veal Parm, et al, may  wait in the wings.

The avid dining scene at the Roustabout popup held at Piccolo; bottom right, co-partner Kip Paschal

Admittedly it’s untimely to review a restaurant before its front doors have opened for business.  But in the case of Roustabout, they’ve made their proverbial splash already after two popup dinners.  The first was at Tandem Bakery (menu: lasagna, Caesar salad, garlic bread, and tiramisu) which I did not attend, and now the second unwrapping at Piccolo, which I attended.

This was a collaborative dinner with super-star chef Damian Sansonetti and wife and pastry chef Ilma Lopez giving a ”helping hand” in their kitchen where Roustabout co-owners Kit Paschal (drinks manager) and Anders Tallberg (chef) put on a fabulous show. In fact it’s one of the best meals I’ve had since the opening nights (and repeated visits) to Evo, Tempo Dulu and Union— the new one-percenters of Portland’s signature restaurants.

At 10:00 PM the coveted dining reservations were in high gear still; standing, left,  is Piccolo’s  Ilma Lopez

It was, however, unclear, which chef—Sansonetti or Tallberg—was doing what.  And diners were left in the dark about the provenance of each dish.  Still, who cared?  Because the food was truly amazing.

The dinner began with an inventive cocktail from drinksmeister Kit Paschal, something he called a chai vermouth spritzer. Since Piccolo does not have a license to serve liquor except wine and beer (and a fabulous list at that) the so-called opening cocktail of this 6-course feast was a concoction based on Dolan white vermouth, chai, Prosecco and garnished with slices of pear and apple.  It was a sublime mouthful that coated the tongue with a marvelous chime of flavors and textures.

It accompanied a wonderful starter of crostini topped with a dazzling spread of avocado and bluefish with Calabrian chilies and pistachios, hardly the handiwork of an old-school Italian mama in the kitchen.

Vermouth chai spritzer and avocado and blue fish toast

Then a cunning second course arrived sealed in a can as you’d fine sardines or anchovies (“In Scatola”).  Inside was a delectable intrigue of local artichokes, house-made mortadella and pickled mustard seeds laced with garum colatua, a Roman fish sauce (definitely a Sansonetti touch).

In Scatolo” artichokes,, mortdadella, pickled mustard seeds served in a can

This was followed by a dish simply called Warm Vegetables:  anchovies moistened with a creamy lemon butter and a sprinkling of bread crumbs.  Ethereal, light, delicious. I’m guessing this was a la Tallberg.

“Warm Vegetables” in lemon butter

As was the L’Italiano, comprised of rosy squares of nardello peppers, cracked olives, coppa di testa (head cheese), chili, arugula, tomato and pecorino. Molto Italiano!

L’Italiano, peppers, olives, coppa di testa

I could see both chefs’ hands in the devise of garganelli Genovese (probably handmade pasta by Sansonetti), with carefully carved gold potatoes, green beans and goat’s milk ricotta.

Garganelli Genovese, with gold potatoes, green beans and goat’s milk ricotta

A final course was an inventive take on chicken fra diavolo, an addictive little dish mixed with collards and a pungent buttermilk dressing.

Chicken fra diavolo

The sweet course was the handiwork of Ilma Lopez whose style as a pastry chef is always innovative.  Cones of white chocolate crema were dressed with coco nibs and black trumpets to stunning effect.

White chocolate crema

Perhaps this special Tallberg-Sansonetti collaboration was fortuitous with two chefs on similar footing giving diners tasty tidbits with a stunning display of culinary teamwork.

Tallberg’s background is excellent, having such chefdom credentials with the Hungry Mother Team, the Cambridge restaurant (now closed) that picked up a 2015 James Beard Award and Hugo’s in Portland. Paschal hails from Boston’s Eastern Standard and Portland’s Hunt and Alpine.

Renovations are still underway.  But the look definitely shows cool, clean lines in an interior that boasts high ceilings and what looks like polished concrete floors (hard to tell with all the construction dust).

In the historic Nissen bakery building, Roustabout has a prime spot along the avenue; the dining room will have banquette seating and what looks like tables against the opposite wall, with the bar area behind it–a scene-stealer in the making

The room will  accommodate about 75 diners and an additional 18 at the bar. The kitchen is in the rear but open to the dining room.  Before leaving I stood in the room and imagined it all put together and thought— it’s another winner in the wings.

Roustabout, 59 Washington Ave., Portland, Maine www.roustabout.me

Rating: high expectations

Ambiance: anticipate hipster casual

Tables: anticipate in high demand

Service: anticipate professional

$$$: moderate to moderately expensive