Cast-iron has always been in my arsenal of cookware with a few sizes at the ready in pots and pans. But over the years my collection has grown from two cast-iron pans to a large collection in all sizes for many different uses.
I’ve learned that what makes cast-iron skillets so integral is the sturdiness of the pan and the heat that it conducts so evenly for such dishes as cornbread, producing the inimitable outer crust, or for skillet pies. Drape pastry dough into a skillet and fill with apples, sugar and a few knobs of butter and it’s all you need for a great pie baked in cast-iron.
These pans are nearly indestructible, and the surface after seasoning and consistent use virtually becomes as good as a manufactured nonstick pan, all smooth and satiny.
As a conductor of heat it’s slow and steady. Sear a steak in a well-heated pan and finish off by roasting in the oven and you’ll achieve that ultimate crusty outer surface. To do hamburgers on the grill I sear the patties in a hot pan set over the coals and give it the final cooking directly on the grill.
The best way to heat up a cast-iron skillet is over medium high heat. It takes a good 3 to 4 minutes for the pan to reach temperature. And it can be used to cook over gas flame, electric cooktop or directly over burning coals.
There used to be many manufacturers of cast-iron, most notable being Lodge, Griswold, Victor and Wagner. The last three manufacturers are now extinct to the cast-iron world and have become the most collectible. Lodge, however, remains the only American manufacturer of cast iron. The pans are pre-seasoned, though I prefer the old pans that have been seasoned by use. The new pans have a slightly bumpy surface instead of the classic silky-smooth finish.
If you find a vintage pan that which needs refurbishing or a new seasoning coat here’s the easiest method in which to do it. Heat an oven to 450 degrees and put the pan in the oven to cook for one hour. Remove, let it cool down for about 15 minutes then coat the pan very lightly—inside and out–with a thin layer of Crisco or vegetable oil. Line the rack beneath the pan with foil or put a large sheet pan underneath to catch any drippings. Put the pan back in the oven upside down. Raise the heat to 475 to 500 degrees and cook for another hour. Turn off the heat and let the pan cool in the oven for 2 to 3 hours. You’ll now have a perfectly seasoned pan. Follow this procedure for a pan that needs either initial seasoning or to refurbish the finish on an older pan. A quick method to give a seasoning boost is to grease the pan as described and cook for one hour in the oven.
Most of my pans are contemporary models from Lodge, which are pre-seasoned. I much prefer the old pans. But when you find a vintage pan check the condition carefully. There should be no warping, cracking or rust; avoid these unless you have the time and know-how to restore.
Having a variety of sizes really sets you up well for cooking in cast iron. Generally 8- to 10-inch pans are the most useful. In my 8-pan collection I have many sizes, all the way up to a 15-inch beauty that needs the grip of two strong hands to move around. I recently used a 12-inch pan on the stovetop for a fried pork chop dish with gravy. It couldn’t have been accomplished without the cast iron to achieve the results of even cooking.
I also have a deep casserole pot or Dutch oven in which I’ll cook beans on the grill or in the oven or roast a whole chicken in it–the crusty skin that develops from being cooked in cast iron is unbeatable.
One size that’s hard to find is the chicken fryer, especially in a vintage pot (Lodge sells it new). It’s a deep pan specifically used to prepare classic fried chicken. I found it at the flea market at Ft. Andross in Brunswick. There’s a seller there who specializes in vintage cast iron. Her stall doesn’t have a name, but go through the big room towards the rear, through a vestibule, following the signs to the rest rooms. Turn left and her shop is right there. Her prices are good, much less than online dealers or EBay sellers. I paid about $50 for this rare fryer. It was in excellent condition.
A word on cleaning cast iron. After each use just scrub it lightly with hot water and a mild soap. For crusted-on particles I use steel wool or a cast-iron scrubber made out of chainmail. It’s an interesting little tool that works well. It’s available on Amazon (SySrion cast-iron cleaner). After cleaning dry thoroughly and rub a very thin layer of vegetable oil on the pan, wiping it in with a paper towel. It’s now set to use again and again.
Of course enamel cast iron is another essential pot to have in the kitchen. Le Creuset is the best brand to have. They’re great for stews, sautés and other preparations in which a heavy-bottomed surface is essential.
That along with a steel French sauté pan (available at Bridge Kitchenware) and a few sizes of All-Clad sauce pans will satisfy all your needs.
The trick here to attain a great outer crust is to heat the pan first in the oven before putting in the batter. Use either bacon grease or butter; use a European style butter, which has less water in it, because it won’t smoke as readily as commercial supermarket butter would. I use Kerry Gold, Cabot 83 European-style butter (hard to find these days), Vermont Creamery, Maine Country Butter or Bisson’s raw-milk butter. Note: when you put the batter into the hot pan it should start to cook immediately along the sides; if it doesn’t your pan wasn’t hot enough.
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons bacon drippings or butter
- 2 cups yellow or white finely ground cornmeal (I use Anson Mills)
- 1 teaspoon coarse salt
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1 large egg, beaten lightly
- 1 1/2 cups milk or buttermilk (buttermilk is preferred such as the local one from Balfour Dairy)
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
- Put the grease into an 8 or 9 inch skillet and heat till it melts in the oven and the pan becomes very hot, about 10 minutes, swirling the pan after 5 minutes.
- Meanwhile combine the dry ingredients together with a whisk in a large mixing bowl. Add the egg and milk or buttermilk. Stir to combine; do not over mix.
- When the pan is good and hot remove from oven and swirl the grease around to cover the bottom and halfway up the sides; use double oven mitts or kitchen towels because the pan will be very hot.
- Pour the grease into the batter and mix just to combine. It will snap crackle and pop a little. Put the batter into the pan and bake for about 20 to 25 minutes or until the top is golden in color and cooked through. Serve from the pan.