October 2015

Nowadays the new popularity of the classic neighborhood butcher shop offers a vital methodology of quality that can include locally farm-raised meats.  And such catchall phrases as natural, grass-fed, pastured, organic, sustainably raised farm meats are part of the vocabulary.

The sirloin roast from Bisson's

The sirloin roast from Bisson’s

Throughout Maine the tradition of butcher shops has remained fairly constant abetted by the strength of Maine’s farmers’ markets where farmers go to sell their bounty of farm-raised beef, lamb, poultry and pork.

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October brought in the first fall weekend that seemed like classic autumn in Maine: puffy cumulus clouds hanging from  bright blue skies; the farmers’ markets in full swing with squash, apples, Brussels sprouts and vibrant root vegetables looking as luscious as ever. Even what we eat and where we go to have it takes on the hues of seasonal change.  I made my first meatloaf since last year.  Sweaters were unpacked, socks covered ankles, jackets donned and a wool blazer worn in the evening. Even a stroll through Portland’s Saturday farmer’s market made me think I should have worn gloves since the brisk winds made the 48 degree temperature feel much colder.

Clockwise: cows grazing on pasture at Bisson's Farm and butcher shop, Topsham; farmer's market at Brunswick-Topsham Land Trust

Clockwise: cows grazing on pasture at Bisson’s Farm and butcher shop, Topsham; farmer’s market at Brunswick-Topsham Land Trust

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The chatter on Roustabout–set to open sometime this fall along Washington Avenue (East Bayside’s  neo-hipster iteration of Middle Street’s  restaurant row)–is that it will feature Italian-American cuisine or, as later amended, a modern-day version thereof.  I’ve been looking forward to getting carefully crafted veal Parm, lasagna, spaghetti with Sunday sauce and meatballs.  But now I’m not so sure if that’s what the place will deliver. (Early menus posted on Instagram several months ago showed a menu of rustic Italian dishes.)

Instead, if it’s any indication, the extraordinary meal I had at this fledgling’s latest collaborative popup dinner on Tuesday night at Piccolo (what a collaboration!), veal Parm, et al, may  wait in the wings.

The avid dining scene at the Roustabout popup held at Piccolo; bottom right, co-paprtner Kip Paschal

The avid dining scene at the Roustabout popup held at Piccolo; bottom right, co-partner Kip Paschal

Admittedly it’s untimely to review a restaurant before its front doors have opened for business.  But in the case of Roustabout, they’ve made their proverbial splash already after two popup dinners.  The first was at Tandem Bakery (menu: lasagna, Caesar salad, garlic bread, and tiramisu) which I did not attend, and now the second unwrapping at Piccolo, which I attended.

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