Sometimes you just have to get out of Dodge as though counting violets was sheer drudgery. That doesn’t mean to shun the Ten Commandments to covet an egg roll instead, but rather to take a winter walk on the beach followed by a great Sunday brunch.
And along the beach-front roads of Cape Elizabeth, Rudy’s is front and center. Since opening earlier this year, it’s become the ultimate roadhouse serving family friendly fare as well as sophisticated dishes, making this new restaurant a coveted addition for Cape residents.
The beach at Kettle Cove, a few streets away from Rudy’s; the dining room and bar; chalk board featuring what’s on tap (beer and wine)
Weekend brunch is relatively new. And after an exhilarating walk on nearby Kettle Cove Beach, dropping into Rudy’s for a delicious morning meal was a natural. The room during the day is flooded with beacons of sunlight streaming through the large windows. At night, the room is dreamily sexy and sophisticated. But during the day you actually get to see how attractive this restaurant is with its communal table in the middle, the long bar with beers and wine on tap, the sun-porch seating and banquettes along the wall– all of which have a bird’s eye view to the open kitchen where chef Daron Goldstein holds sway.
The open kitchen lauds over the dining room and bar
His food is both gutsy and refined. From the brunch menu my eye went instinctively to the corned beef hash. It’s served in a cast-iron cocotte and baked briefly in the oven.
The corned beef hash is baked in a cocotte and topped with eggs and a fonduta
The corned beef is braised for over 6 hours in aromatics and spices and pulled apart to layer in the dish. Little cubes of potatoes, onions and pepper are mixed in to form the hash, and eggs over easy rest like a creamy veil over the meat. It’s topped with a delicious fonduta, a white sauce enriched with fontina cheese.
A well-made bloody Mary is adorned with blue-cheese stuffed olives; Southside Bakery’s rye bread; plenty of corned beef in the hash; front of restaurant
Though I prefer my hash to be crunchy and crusty, this version was softer but absolutely delicious with tons of briny, tender beef. I ordered a side of toasted, buttered rye bread, and washed it down with the house bloody Mary and excellent coffee from Bard Coffee Roasters in Portland. Even the bread from Southside Bakery in South Portland was terrific, tasting like real Jewish-style rye from New York complete with caraway seeds.
From Portland, over the bridge and a few miles down Route 77, it’s a painless field trip to dine well by the sea in winter.
Rudy’s, 517 Ocean House Road, Cape Elizabeth, ME 207-799-0270 www.rudysme.com
Rating: a 4-plus-star weekend brunch as well as lunch and dinner
Ambiance: both family friendly and hipster ready, the perfect roadhouse
Noise: moderate
Tables: a variety of seating including communal table, banquettes, bar and sun room
Highly regarded quotient: very creative menu including a stellar burger made with short rib, brisket and chuck blend
Bar: Wine and beer on tap from wall dispenser; full bar with requisite craft cocktails
$$$: moderately expensive
