November 2015

What a display of Portland diners flocking to first night this past Tuesday at the newly opened Roustabout. To wit–it’s the latest darling in the mannered pleasures of our city’s boundlessly good restaurants.  Located in the historic Nissen Bakery Building on Washington Avenue, it joins a diverse roster of establishments already on the strip, most notably the recently opened Terlingua.

Roustabout’s conceptual karma is the handiwork of Portland branding specialists, Might and Main who’ve helped fashion such high fliers as Central Provisions, Hugo’s, Honey Paw  and more among the trendy watering holes and eateries that are defining the city.

Roustabout's dining room and bar

Roustabout’s dining room and bar

You see the Might and Main touches right away in the blond wood, the prominent bar and the generally cool sleekness in design.  While brand-building helps, ultimately it’s what co-owners Kit Paschal and Anders Tallberg have delivered in decor,  ambiance and food.  Paschal hails as bar and beverage personality from Boston and Tallberg has had some impressive chef credentials in that city too.

Together this duo is delivering in spades.  After two dinners there I experienced superb food served by a first-rate wait staff and, for once, the front- of -the house attention to detail was meaningful.

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Two totally different cookbooks are worth looking at because the collections are so unusual. The first is from southern chef John Currence, a James Beard winner and his book. Pickles, Pigs and Whiskey.  He owns several restaurants in the south, most notably his City Grocery in Oxford, Mississippi. He grew up in New Orleans, but his ideologies span the culinary globe.  Consider this bon mot: ‘Where there is rosemary…let there be lemon.”

Pickles, Pigs and Whiskey by John Currence

Pickles, Pigs and Whiskey by John Currence (photo of book cover)

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When I first came to Portland a friend guided me through the Deering Oaks Portland Farmer’s Market pointing out (in his opinion) the best vendors to visit.  He was quite emphatic: only go here for greens, there for vegetables and so on.

The lazy days of shopping at Portland's farmer's market are behind us but there's plenty of good things to be had now and through the winter

The lazy days of shopping at Portland’s Farmer’s Market are behind us but there’s plenty of good things to be had now and through the winter

Years later I admit that I have my favorite farmers for specific vegetables, greens and meats,  but typically I stroll through the whole  market, walking up and down looking at who’s got what and compare prices before I decide where to make purchases.  If I see a display of peppers, for instance, that are the brightest and firmest I make a mental note of that vendor and return to buy them. During berry season, though, the choice is easy.  I usually go to Alewive’s Brook Farm because his strawberries are not sprayed and he’s the only vendor who cultivates sparkles berries, a very sweet variety, though fragile.

Beautiful fall peppers

Beautiful fall peppers

At this time of year, one month before the Portland market goes indoors, the summer crops are  a memory.  No more feeling up the tomatoes, or stripping back the shucks of corn to peek inside.  But there’s plenty of potatoes–not so new as in June but still rich and delicious; cabbages are best growing more intensely flavored in cooler growing conditions’ and it’s high season for celeriac and great to put in stock and with other roots in a puree.

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