If you looking for the epitome of a joint, The Bayou Kitchen personifies that rough and tumble dining exuberance to a tee. As a hangout (they open at 7 AM–8 AM on Sundays–and close at 2 PM daily) for breakfast, brunch or lunch, the menu stays the same.
It offers the full panoply of egg dishes and more complex plates of Cajun style fare like gumbo, sausages and beans with rice. I’ve always just kept to breakfast eggs, and on this past Sunday I didn’t see much gumbo being passed around.
Table or counter seating front and rear in the small dining room
They’re famous, however, for their pancakes. I’ve never tried Bayou’s flapjacks but have seen them coming out of the kitchen the size of dinner plates–but looking so light and fluffy.
Bayou pancakes with blueberries
The place is about the folksiest eatery in Portland. When I sat down at the counter a waiter came over and said that he’d clean up the plates and crumbs left on the counter. And he sat right down next to me to chat about this and that while he cleared away the dishes and wiped the counter clean with a rag. Later, when I left, the waitress at the register said, “See you soon, sweetie.” Even my mother hardly called me “sweetie.
For breakfast I stuck to the basic corned beef hash with eggs. It’s definitely not from a can but made right there with a neat dice of beef, potatoes and onions. There was a defining spice in the mix, most likely ground cloves or nutmeg; still suffering from a cold I couldn’t quite tell.
Chefs at the range
It’s a nice hash. The exterior is crusty and it’s creamy within. The kitchen probably did a gray brine on the meat because the corned beef didn’t have that classic faded red color.
Corned beef hash with poached eggs, homies and cornbread
The homies were perfectly delicious red-skinned potatoes given a nice crisping on the flat top. Two poached eggs were just right, with firm whites and runny yolks. I chose Bayou’s cornbread as my toast selection. It was so light that the bread nearly crumbled in my hand.
The Bayou Kitchen might not pass muster with New Orleans chef John Besh, but for Portland it’s the closest thing to experience Cajun flavors.
The Bayou Kitchen, 543 Deering Ave. (off Forest and Woodford), 207-774-4935 www.thebayoukitchenmaine.com
Rating: Just plain good high-style joint with great egg dishes and hearty gumbos and other Cajun-inspired cooking.
Service: Totally friendly and folksy
Tables: rickety tables and chairs; classic bar stools at the dining counter
Ambiance: very neighborhood
Parking: if you’re lucky!
$$$: very moderate
