There are plenty of opportunities to enjoy good pizza in Portland. And the newest addition is Pizzaiolo, making New York style pizza with a Bronx accent. Newly opened on Cumberland Avenue, next to a few dicey convenience stores—hardly of the carriage-trade ilk— it’s also across from the Preble Street Teen Center and the wonderful Schulte and Herr, Portland’s only German restaurant. Urban archeologists might term this as a neighborhood in transition. I wouldn’t hold my breath. Still, I stopped in for a slice earlier in the week and ordered two pies from Pizzaiolo just last night.
Pizzaiolo on Cumberland Avenue
Overall, Portland has a lot of pizza options for such a small city. Bill’s Pizza on Commercial Street is probably the best example here of ersatz Italian-American pizza. I haven’t been there in a few years (and its under new management since my last visit) but I remember it being eminently forgettable.
At the other end are the gourmet pizzas made by Portland’s reigning pizza purveyors and chefs. From Slab’s truly artisanal wedge-style pizza; the thin-crust slices from the ever-expanding Otto, virtually a mini-conglomerate of our local pie set; farm-to-table wood-oven baked Flatbread Company and to the carefully tended pies at Bonobo’s–these have been the premier spots to enjoy pizza with pizazz. Portland’s restaurants shouldn’t be overlooked either. Many are baked in wood ovens to emerge thin- crusted and crisp. The Grill Room, for instance, has fancy-topped 9-inch pies baked in a wood oven.
A slice ($3.50), the Porko, with sausage, mozzarella, sausage, meatballs and tomato sauce at Pizzaiolo
For the casual slice on the go or on the rare occasion when I’ve ordered it for delivery, I think Leonardo’s on Forest Avenue is pretty good–classic Italian-American pizza that’s made with wholesome ingredients such as King Arthur Flour. It’s really a variation on New York style pizza, which is basically a thin-crust pie loaded with tomato sauce and cheese.
Most standard pizzas are baked in gas ovens, but in the early 1900s they bubbled up in coal or wood-fired cooking chambers. Some in fact are still made that way. Lombardi’s in New York’s Little Italy has been in business since 1905 and continues to bake their pies in coal-fired ovens. It claims to have been the first to introduce Neapolitan style pizza to Americans. But like New York’s classic bagel shops, there are tons of highly regarded pizza parlors everywhere in New York City, in all the five boroughs, each owning a certain style of pizza making. From Brooklyn to the Bronx to Queens, Manhattan and Staten Island New York pizza benefits from the high-mineral water from its reservoirs used in the dough.
What’s the deal then with Portland pizza pies? Who makes their own dough and who gets it frozen from commercial purveyors? According to Pat Scally of Pizzaiolo, his pies are made from dough that’s made at his shop. Places like Otto—and many others–he said, use commercially made dough. Not for Scally who’s been in the pizza game for 30 years, starting in the Bronx and was also head of operations at Otto for several years.
He sources the best Parmesan and mozzarella cheeses and his meatballs (they make subs, too) and tomato sauce are from old family recipes.
The Pizzaiolo space, however, is about as plain as it gets. There’s a few tables and a counter where you can eat a slice and down a soda.
The plain-Jane decor belies the quality of the pizza; lower right, owner and pizza chef, Pat Scally
The shop reminds me of the neighborhood pizza joints that I went to growing up in New York. It was a buck a slice then. I’d go into a shop, get a slice and eat it while walking home after school, the slice folded in half as I walked. It was loaded with mozzarella and tomato sauce and probably some dried oregano and oil. In those days there was no such thing as artisanal pizza, thin crust, brick-oven baked. Just your basic pizza pie dripping with melted mozzarella. I actually preferred the slab (dubbed Sicilian) variety and always asked for a corner piece.
Last night I ordered two small pies to share at home with a friend. Their delivery reach is expanding, but I live close enough for it to have arrived in about a half hour from phoning in the order. It’s packed in a heavy cardboard box tucked into an insulated carrying bag.
The pizza is packed for travel in a heavy cardboard generic box
I met the delivery person downstairs and brought it up to my apartment. It was still quite warm and its presentation in the box was impressive. The small pies, both 12 inches, were $12 for the Pizzaiolo and $13 for the Porko. (Large 16-inch pies are $19 to $23.)
The pesto pie is made with their house-made basil pesto, whole milk mozzarella and Parmesan. The other is a creamy whole-milk mozzarella, pepperoni, Italian sausage “mama’s” hand-rolled meatballs and their signature Pizzaiolo tomato sauce.
Pizzaiolo Pesto
Pizza is best enjoyed straight out of the oven (after a few minutes to cool down). It’s all fresh, the crust is still firm and crisp; pizza doesn’t have a long shelf life. Reheating it resuscitates it somewhat.
These were, however, pretty good, fairly unaffected by travel. The pesto was not overly garlicky and topped with plenty of melted mozzarella cheese. The porko had lots going on. The sausage was well spiced and the meatballs and pepperoni were compatible additions. The rich tomato sauce and mozzarella added great texture and taste. As pizza goes both were admirable.
The porko is packed with sausage, pepperoni, and meatballs in tomato sauce and mozzarella
It’s too bad that the shop itself is not more appealing inside. And the neighborhood locals who loiter outside the adjacent shops give one pause. But, hey, that’s the urban landscape. You can pull up in front of the store easily enough, park and go inside to grab a slice or call ahead to have a whole pie ordered or delivered. Parking will be available at the adjacent lot eventually.
For now, at the very least we have another option for well-made pizza in Portland.
Scally “throwing” the dough
Pizzaiolo, 360 Cumberland Ave., Portland, ME 207-536-7210
Rating: well made New York style pizza with creative toppings; housemade breadsticks, salads and meatball hero also available; pizza is by the slice or whole pizza
Ambiance: no-frills decor with a few tables and chairs and window counter
Service: staff is very friendly; delivery available
$$$: inexpensive:
Parking: Street and in the future space available at the adjacent parking lot
