If lack of wherewithal stirs unhappiness, then the effulgence of Sunday brunch is a fine remedy.  That and a glass of morning Sherry on the porch opens the door to countless revelries.  Portland abounds with choices and as you’ve read here I’ve given my opinion on many places.  But one that has slipped my sights is the East Ender.

The downstairs dining room and bar at East Ender

My only regret is that chefs and owners Karl Deuben and Bill Leavey traded in their Small Axe food truck for the brick and mortar route; theirs was, to date, the best of the lot as far as food truck cuisine goes in Portland.

But that’s Ok because the food at the East Ender is still enticing.  What I like about their Middle Street restaurant at brunch is the variety of dishes without the usual foundation of eggs Benedict.  Other spots like Terlingua, Roustabout and Caiola’s  offer solid fare, too, with inventive dishes that fill and satisfy.

East Ender makes a classic bloody Mary

I made a beeline for the chicken fried steak with sausage gravy and biscuit because that’s the kind of food that makes me lick my chops.    But it was tough to decide against the other choices like fried chicken and waffles; an egg sandwich on thick sliced grilled bread with bacon, cheese and kimchi; the Maine lobster melt with bacon jam or pork belly fried rice and eggs.

Chicken fried steak is a classic country dish that’s returning to restaurant menus.  It’s as old-fashioned as coarse ground oats.  Traditionally it’s made with cheap cuts of steak like round or cube, but East Ender uses grass fed sirloin steak procured from Rosemont’s butchery; they pound it thin and coat it in a batter that is deep fried to emerge as crisp as the Colonel’s finest.    It’s cloaked in a dark sausage gravy that’s smooth and light.  Adorned with two poached eggs and a delicious buttery biscuit that practically melts at first bite, it’s a fine dish with elegance and heartiness.

Classic chicken-fried steak with sausage gravy

But when the diners next to me were served their chicken and waffles, I ogled it shamelessly until they obliged to let me snap a photo.

A monumental serving of waffles and fried chicken

Both downstairs and upstairs rooms are open at brunch on Saturday and Sunday.  There’s parking in the lot next door on weekends, otherwise finding a spot on the street is difficult on one of the most food-centric boulevards in Portland.

East Ender, 57 Middle St., Portland, ME 207-879-7669 www.eatenderportland.com

Rating: brunch is superb with hearty, well conceived dishes; farm-to-table quality, local ingredients

Ambiance: A casual, cool pub with  fine dining and classic fare

Service: excellent and friendly

Seating: at the bar, at tables, upstairs and down

Parking: adjacent lot after 6 pm weekdays and on weekends all day, otherwise street parking

$$$: moderate at Brunch, most dishes $10 to $19