Sometimes the perfect dinner comes along unexpectedly.  That was the case at Lolita.  After trying to get into the latest sweep of new restaurants, finding each full to capacity, I headed out of the culinary congestion up to Munjoy Hill.  Parking is always difficult there (time for that to change, with the senseless No Parking signs gone) I  luckily found a spot in front of the restaurant.

The busy bar Friday night at Lolita

Lolita was nearly full, with one seat at the bar.  I ordered a perfect gimlet (often called The Golden Gimlet—and one of the few bars that still stocks Rose’s Lime Juice) and looked at the specials on the board.

Clockwise: lamb lasagna; the Golden Gimlet; smoked bass and rapini toasts; vintage espresso machine; the Lolita dining room and fruit crumble dessert

They were so appealing that I selected all three: John’s River Oysters, smoked bass and rapini toasts and lamb lasagna.  The oysters had a bracing mignonette with finely chopped shallots and what tasted like a Champagne vinaigrette; two crostini each held a creamy spread of the smoked fish and luscious sautéed rapini.  The lamb lasagna was a simple devise filled with gamey braised lamb held together with pasta sheets that were crisp but soft within.  Dessert was a fruit crumble with perfect scoops of housemade ice cream.  The final touch of an espresso made in their vintage espresso machine was a great ending to an exceedingly comforting meal.

Lolita, 90 Congress St., Portland, ME 207-775-5652 www.lolita-portland.com

Rating: small-plate perfection within this bustling bistro in the heart of the stylish Munjoy Hill

Service: very attentive 

Seating: cozy tables and bar dining

Parking: street parking is difficult but not impossible; Uber is a good choice

$$$: moderately expensive, or about $50-plus per person with 3 to 4 dishes with wine or cocktails