When the Portland Whole Foods Market opened in 2007, the event was as momentous as discovering the apogee of chopped liver.  At the onset the store has been one of the most profitable in the chain’s international lineup.  On any given day, even during a snowstorm, the market is jam packed with shoppers.  Who knew that the otherwise frugal mindset of New Englanders would embrace such a store whose often-used nickname is Whole Paycheck Market?

Portland's Whole Foods Market

Portland’s Whole Foods Market

In its early years the store sold raw milk, premium butter from California’s renowned Straus Family Creamery and there was a grill that made some of the best hamburgers and fries in the city.  Those perks are gone and the cafe closed down a few years ago to become a catchall of  table seating to bring any off its prepared foods to the space; the only other dining option is the excellent Japanese sushi and dumpling bar next to it.

Now with the opening of the Somerset Pub in the same space, there’s new dining life at Whole Foods.  The market held several previews before its April 12 official opening date.  I went to one of them surprised that I didn’t see other media folk.  It was heavily attended by the local beer community since the store has countless local brews on tap.

The new Somerset Pub

The new Somerset Pub

I’m not a beer drinker so I didn’t imbibe in that foamy bubbly.  Instead I had a sparkling water to accompany the delicious passed hors d’ oeuvres: charred Shishito peppers with fresh basil, sea salt and a sweet Sriracha syrup.  Other nibbles included delicious bits of fried cauliflower served with Shlotterbeck & Foss dipping sauce and what will most likely become a signature dish: chicken wings that are baked and then fried and served with a blue-cheese dipping sauce.

Pub fare, clockwise: Parmesan dusted fries; batter fried cauliflower; house chips and pub wings

Pub fare, clockwise: Parmesan dusted fries; batter fried cauliflower; house chips and pub wings

On opening day, I went there to have lunch: the tried and true test of their burger and fries.   It’s housed in a huge challah bun, topped with pickled red onion, fresh, crisp leaves of Romaine lettuce and a real tomato–deep red, juicy and flavorful.  It comes with fries, Parmesan coated and sprinkled with fresh rosemary. All for $13 (maybe it should have been a bit less expensive), it was a great burger, better than many that cost upwards of $15 elsewhere and are too loaded with the stuff of numerous toppings.  It had wonderful char, good beef flavor from prime Pineland Farms beef and a nice coating of melted Pineland Farms sharp cheddar. Though I could have had a pint of beer, I opted to wash it down with Maine Root soda, a Mexican style cola.  There’s no diet soft drink on the menu other than sparkling water.

Classic cheeseburger and fries

Classic cheeseburger and fries

Other dishes on the menu include grilled pizzettas, sandwiches and salads and a few entrees like Shepherd’s pie, made with local North Star lamb; fish and chips in an Allagash beer batter; a country fried tofu sandwich; mac and cheese with choice of either creamy or lobster studded versions ($16) and there’s a lobster roll for $18.

The menu is still in its growth stage and after talking with the wait staff (yes there’s table service) the menu has room to grow. The kitchen is headed by an East Ender alumnus, Gabe Balkus.   I hope he expands the menu with  a great grilled cheese sandwich as well as a fried clam roll or platter to round things out.

The room has been redone, but any resemblance to it looking like a pub is in name only.  The open kitchen with its fry station, ovens and cooktop is impressive.  As for the pub look, there’s too much glass and light coming in through the huge windows, hardly reminiscent of a swanky dark paneled pub room.  Still, this is a great addition to the store, and cafes of many stripe exist in their other stores around the country.

Somerset Pub bar

Somerset Pub bar

They’re open from 11 AM till store closing at 10 PM.  And for a casual place to go for lunch or light dinner, this, I predict, will be as popular as the marketplace.

Somerset Pub, 2 Somerset Street, Whole Foods Market 207-774-7711 www.wfm.com

Rating: perfect pub food and great selection of local beers on tap

Ambiance: table service in a very casual setting

Tables: at the dining bar or table seating and a central high top in the middle of the room

Price: Not inexpensive but average for Portland

Parking: At the Whole Foods parking lot