The evening was another Danforth Inn gala.  And the food was nothing short of revelatory at the LifeFlight dinner held at Tempo Dulu, a performance orchestrated by chefs Shelby Stevens and Chris long, whose regular beat is at the Danforth’s sister establishments, the Camden Harbour Inn and Natalie’s Restaurant.

life wine

The reason for this celebration was to thank LifeFlight, a nonprofit organization that takes to the air to transport patients in need of critical care. Hoteliers Oscar Verest and Raymond Brunyanszki were thanking them for taking care of their chef Chris Long when he had an accident last year that was life threatening and needed to be transported to Maine Medical from Camden for immediate care.

Fine wines served at the dinner in one of three dining rooms at Tempo Dulu at the Danforth

Fine wines served at the dinner in one of three dining rooms at Tempo Dulu at the Danforth

It’s been a long time since such precious cooking of this caliber has graced our dining scene.  Which is not to say that our best restaurants are falling short.  But fine dining returned this evening in full force. This from Long and Stevens was world-class cuisine. It recalled remembrances of the early splendors at Hugo’s when founding chef, Rob Evens prevailed.  Or at the memorable punctiliousness of Chef Erik Dejarlais at his venerable Bandol.

For the moment, Portland dining has settled into simpler fare at its newest restaurants such as Scales, the fabulous New England brasserie that opened recently on Maine Wharf.  Other hot spots such as Terlingua, Roustabout and Woodford Food and Beverage don’t aim to wow but rather to satisfy a clientele hungry for comfort food.

A starter course of asparagus with nori

A starter course of asparagus with nori

One exquisite dish after another was nearly overwhelming. Even the hors oeuvres served at the cocktail hour to an assemblage of about 50 invited guests were superb such as the savory shortbread crackers topped with pesto and smooth rounds of foie gras.  How divine.

And drinks galore were prepared by dashing bartender Trevin Hutchins who’s touted as one of the foremost drinksmeisters in the country.

Trevin Hutchins, drinks master extraordinaire

Trevin Hutchins, drinks master extraordinaire

The extraordinary 5-course dinner started with an asparagus salad adorned with nori, speck and fiddleheads that produced an intricate web of flavors that luxuriously coated the palate—sweet, savory, cool and smooth.

The gutsier second course of soft shell crabs accented with almond- basil pesto and peas created a plate of earthy, textural delights.

Of the many diners, guest included chef Frederic Eliot and his wife, pastry chef Catherine Cote Eliot; artist Patrick Pierson (right)

Of the many diners, guest included chef Frederic Eliot and his wife, pastry chef Catherine Cote Eliot; artist Patrick Pierson (right)

Perhaps the most unusual, if not astounding dish was the garganelle with pork belly and spring ramps infused with a cunning dose of smoked thyme.

The entrée course was simplicity itself:  tournedos of rib eye with mushrooms, sorrel and sea beans. Finally, a dessert of luscious strawberries laced with coconut, kefir and crème fraiche was an exotic ending.

Top clockwise: prime rib; soft-shell crabs and garganelle with pork belly

Top clockwise: prime rib; soft-shell crabs and garganelle with pork belly and ramps

Each course was accompanied by wine pairings chosen by sommelier Micah Wells from Natalie’s Restaurant and who often shows up at the Danforth for their frequent fetes. My favorite was the 2014 Terlan Sauvignon Winkl Alto Adige Italy—soft , delicately fruity and minerally– that accompanied the pasta course.  Then an astounding pour of Maine Pinot Noir from Cellar Door Winery in Lincolnville was the highlight of the pairings.  It was soft and silky yet coated the tongue with smoked raspberry richness, unusual and perfect with the tournedos of beef.

Strawberries with coconut, kefir and creme fraiche

Strawberries with coconut, kefir and creme fraiche

Portland has many fine restaurants of varying styles and cuisines.  But this evening’s meal was truly a revelation: elegant service in sophisticated surroundings with divinely prepared dishes.  All of which evoked moments of highly mannered but triumphant modern cuisine that should never go out of style.