The Front Room was a pioneer in 2008 when it opened on Munjoy Hill as a precursor to surging real estate values that now define this revivified East End neighborhood.  Then, however, neo-millennials packed its space for the modestly priced comfort food that its founding chef Harding Lee Smith did so well.

The busy dining room never stops

Three rooms later (The Grill Room, The Corner Room and Boone’s  Fish House and Oyster Room) packed with patronage of all ages, the original one is still going strong.  I don’t think I’ve dined there in over a year until this past Wednesday when I dropped in to have dinner at the bar.

A diverse crowd and the bar and dining room; second row (left) bartender Asher and hostess, lower left

I remembered liking the roast chicken on past occasions and that’s exactly what I was in the mood for.  My dinner began with a frisée salad composed of bacon, pickled red onions, croutons and topped with a poached egg, which laces the dressing as the runny yolk bathes the greens, bacon and onion.  It was delicious with its candied goodness punctuated with the crisp leaves of bitter frisée.

Frisee salad

I tried to order my usual cocktail, a vodka gimlet made with Rose’s lime juice, but the bar there like so many others in town doesn’t use the product and prefer their own concoctions of fresh lime juice as a stand-in for a lime cordial.  It doesn’t work for me, the drink coming off resembling a Tom Collins.

A well-made Negroni with Spanish sweet vermouth, Compari and vodka

Instead my default cocktail is a Negroni.  I asked Asher, the very affable bartender, what kind of vermouth is used.  He said it was Martini and Rossi, which is not a great red vermouth, and he offered one from Spain, whose style is more aromatic than a typical sweet red vermouth from Italy. It was a good Negroni to accompany the salad served with tasty house made focaccia and an excellent olive oil for dipping.

I thought the two jars, with grinding caps, however, of commercial-grade salt and pepper at each place setting was a questionable choice when better  spices should have prevailed.

Salt and pepper jars

The plate of roast chicken was half a bird with breast, leg and thigh, and it was served steaming hot with mashed potatoes and greens.  It was beautifully burnished, very well-seasoned with hints of salt, pepper and garlic and was cooked perfectly without being dry.  In fact, it was very juicy and tender.  But throughout my time carving the chicken pieces, the meat never stopped steaming as though it had been warmed up in a microwave.  I don’t think it was, but I can’t think of another reason for the wafting steam.  In fact, the chicken never cooled down.   The mashed potatoes were good and the accompanying sautéed spinach, though, was a bit dull—definitely not the goodness from local leaves so easily available though costlier than commercial packages of baby spinach.

Roast chicken with mashed potatoes and spinach

Overall it was a fine, wholesome dinner, fairly priced at about $50 all in and I’d definitely return for its well-made home-style cooking–especially the meatloaf wrapped in bacon that’s still on the menu as well as other stick-to-the-ribs fare.  Next time I might also indulge in dessert and dig in to the kitchen ‘s  super brownie topped with ice cream and hot fudge.

The Front Room, 73 Congress St., Portland, ME 207-773-3366   www.thefrontroomrestaurant.com

Hours: 8:00 AM to 9:00 PM, serving brunch, lunch and dinner

Rating: a solid 4 star experience for reliably good comfort food

Service: excellent

$$$: moderate

Tables: close together

Parking: on street and difficult to find because of arcane parking rules