In the great world of Portland dining few of the New Wave have achieved the stature of Back Bay Grill. For nearly 30 years running it has maintained the highest level of cuisine, service, ambiance and style, an astounding feat given the vagaries of Portland’s—or any city’s–dining culture.

Starched white  cloths top the tables in the main dining room; table number 7 (lower left) is still the favorite spot for an intimate dinner for two

With a team that includes owner-chef Larry Matthews, who often turns the reigns over to his accomplished sous chefs, the high notes of fine dining are consistently belted out in a bravura performance.  And it remains the only restaurant in Portland with a bona fide maître d’.  Adrian Stratton, its major domo, keeps it all ship shape.  He advises diners on what wines to drink from its extensive wine list; prepares cocktails just right, even for the most persnickety imbiber and sails his mast of knowledge squarely across the glistening seas of the restaurant’s menu in a minuet of well-mannered steps that are symphonic.

Even the service is smooth and tactful and manages never to impede the easy flow of dining in such a structured setting.  The dining room, tweaked over the years, is fitted along the lines of a fine urbane bistro. Especially so with the famous mural lauding over the scene like the proverbial soothsayer espousing wisdom and wit.

Back Bay’s signature mural

In the review that I wrote in the Portland Press Herald two years ago, I noted this: The fare is more haute than hipster, or, as long-time chef and owner Larry Matthews puts it, “We serve good food done well. We’re not trendy, but we keep up with current tastes.”

Back Bay’s perfect gimlet served in their signature square cut glassware

The kitchen combines traditional French technique with dishes derivative of classic fare across the globe. And that shows up in such a starter course as cream of parsley soup, which I had just a few nights ago.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen it on a menu around town; it’s a very Edwardian preparation that you’re more apt to find at the Connaught dining room in London; certainly not along the rough edges of the city’s Bayside neighborhood where Back Bay has remained the pioneer, taking louche to luxe.

Cream of parsley soup with lobster

All of Back Bay’s cream soups are superbly done.  This one had the consistency of liquid velvet within a silken veil garnished with lobster knuckle, horseradish crème fraiche and scallions. Lesser kitchens might have served more putative renditions; but not here.  It’s first rate all the way.

That goes, too, for the beef tartare, a robust round of superlative beef tenderloin highly seasoned without being obsequious.   Topped with the freshest farm egg yolk and olive oil crackers to scoop up the treasures, it remains one of the most satisfying starters on the menu.

Beef tartare

Of course the restaurant employs a long list of local purveyors, and if you have a salad such as the asparagus served that night tossed with pristine greens, it’s beyond reproach especially so adorned with house-smoked bacon, dill and buttermilk dressing and the perfection of a 6-minute egg set on the salad with the frippery of a fine summer hat.

The list of entrees is very focused, and each superbly done.  Whether it’s the turban of salmon, the grilled tenderloin with Roquefort or classic wine-rich brown sauce, the hand-rolled pastas and the superb preparations of chicken and duck are just some of the splendid dishes that are served with assurance.

Butter poached lobster

That evening our foursome enjoyed a few fine nibs on the menu:  Two of us chose the rack of lamb and the other half dug into the salmon and the butter-poached lobster.  The latter was nearly   an evanescence of buttery crustacean garnished with mussels, and the salmon was a regal helping sitting like a gorgeous statue on the dish.  But let me expound on the rack of lamb.  Of course it was local; but beyond that it was the best I’ve had in ages because the meat was so buttery tender and highly flavored.  There was some discussion on how I wanted it cooked.  My usual answer is ‘pink,” which translates in my mind to a shade past medium rare. Our waiter needed more guidance, however, and I gave it with the proviso that it arrives at the table after the meat reaches 130 degrees.

Rack of lamb

And that’s exactly what was set before me.  Served with little crisps of fingerling potatoes and simple pan juices, it was a gorgeous display of four perfectly roasted chops from the rack.

Back Bay has at times employed a pastry chef, but the most popular desserts are two of the ice cream creations on the menu, which have graced the list for decades.  Caramel ice cream with Bourbon caramel sauce couldn’t be creamier or richer; and the white chocolate ice cream with chocolate sauce topped with an enigmatic swirl of chocolate spaghetti is a web of chocolate madness that’s extraordinary.

White chocolate ice cream with chocolate spaghetti

The wine list is one of the best in Portland.  We enjoyed a very fine Chateau de Sancerre, crisp and clear with first courses, and an Oregon Pinot Noir, Elk Grove, Willamette Valley, that complemented our main courses so well.

Caramel ice cream with caramel sauce

I’m often asked which is my favorite restaurant.  I can’t answer that because there are so many that are praiseworthy.  But I can say there’s nothing like Back Bay Grill in Maine. It prepares unimpeachably wonderful food, and what more could you want?

Back Bay Grill: 65 Portland St., Portland, ME 207-772-8833, www.backbaygrill.com

Rating: superb dining that is definitely a 5-star show

Ambiance: elegant, well-mannered bistro

Service: impeccable

Parking: street

$$$: Expensive