Some restaurants age well. Others just get old.
Consider then what makes such a restaurant as Espo’s so inexhaustibly disappointing. Yet it’s always full. Lines of diners out the door are panting to get in for its family fare of ersatz Italian-American cooking in a setting that’s meant to look like a trattoria but is really nothing more than a glorified pizzeria with table service.
Espo’s famous meatballs
