I suspect that Hug’s has a loyal, local following who like the comfy atmosphere of the dining room and the nicely prepared old-school Italian-American fare. That the decorous touches are a  tad kitschy with scenes in Italian murals depicting canals and byways, as such, it’s certainly the only restaurant of the genre in Falmouth.

Our little group of 5 wound up there by default on a recent Sunday night.  We were all in the mood for a cheesy Parm and pasta dinner with a comfort-food drenching of Sunday sauce.

A salad of crisp greens (not local) served family style

A salad of crisp greens (not local) served family style

Our first choice was Bruno’s, which is still the best of the lot for this kind of home-style cooking.  But, alas, they’re closed on Sundays.  Espo’s or Casa Novello were not options since no one wanted to go to either.  Anjon’s in Scarborough  was briefly considered but nixed for being too far.  And Rose’s along Route 302 in Windham, which I’ve been to and liked, was a distant choice, too.

We also tried to get to Roustabout  for its compelling Sunday special– the $40 dinner of meatballs and  spaghetti for two.  Well, not only had the kitchen run out, but the wait time to get a table at 7:30 on a Sunday was at least 30 minutes.

Then we thought of  Hugs.  I’ve been there before when I reviewed it for the Portland Press Herald’s dining column several years ago.  I had decent enough food at the time and since we were already on Washington Avenue, we could zip onto 295 and be in Falmouth in a flash.

The Hug’s dinner crowd was winding down.  But as it turned out we had a really enjoyable meal, and the service was as warm and welcoming as a big hug.

Hugs' great pesto-Parmesan bread sticks

Hugs’ great pesto-Parmesan bread sticks

The plate of meatballs with red sauce was a great appetizer.  These were soft, delicate balls of meat in a rich freshly made tomato sauce.

Hug's meatballs in red sauce

Hug’s meatballs in red sauce

We loved the bread basket, too, which held pesto-encrusted toasts with grated Parmesan.  We asked for seconds!

The real test came with assessing the Parmesan dishes.  We tried both the chicken Parmesan and the veal Parmesan.  Both meats were buttery soft and tenderly wrapped in a crisp breading.  Again the red sauce that blanketed both was first rate:  not overly garlicky, but sweet with the luscious flavor of a long-simmered tomato sauce. Cloaked with melted mozzarella and served with a  side of pasta you couldn’t get any better.

Chicken cacciatore and veal Marsala

Chicken cacciatore and veal Marsala

One of us, however, ordered the chicken cacciatore.  With olives, tomatoes, peppers, onions and capers it was a tasty version of this classic.  The only clunker was veal Marsala.  The meat was drowned in a mushroom sauce, which might have been why it emerged  so rubbery.

Prize-worthy veal and chicken Parms

Prize-worthy veal and chicken Parms

Regarding the restaurant’s felicitous name, it’s speaks fact and fiction galore.  One story is that the owner hugged everyone who came in to eat.  The real story is the original owner, Huguette Flannigan, opened the first Hugs at Sugarloaf years ago and used her nickname for the restaurant. Hugs has stuck ever since.

Hugs’ Route 1 location is no stranger to Italian restaurants.  Over the years it’s been home to Casa Napoli, Johnny’s Bistro, and Finch’s.  Its latest iteration might be the best of them all.

Hug’s, 204 US-1, Falmouth, ME 207-781-3342 www.hugsitalian.com

Rating: Easy to like food, traditional old-school Italian American

Service: Excellent and very friendly 

Tables:  Well spaced

Parking: onsite 

$$$: Moderate