Biddeford’s Palace Diner has in two short years become the holy grail for diner geeks out for hash, home fries, stack cakes, etcetera, of the highest order. Call it the quest for the ultimate diner-car cuisine– pretty basic food elevated to something culinary and worthwhile.  Consider their classic cheeseburger, which I ordered the other day on my first time back to the place in nearly two years.  It was one of the best I’ve had in recent memory.  It was slathered with mayonnaise, mustard, housemade pickles, shredded lettuce and a draping of perfectly melted Cheddar cloaking the beef patty –not the thickest in the world— but it had great char and flavor from good-quality beef.  Even the roll stood up to all this burger frippery.

The vintage, classic Palace Diner

When I reviewed the diner shortly after it opened in 2014, I had this to say in my Maine Today write-up:

Kitchen acrobatics usually happen in much larger restaurants that lay claim to culinary largesse with A-list chefs at the stove. But when the establishment is a 15-stool diner in a Maine city desperately gripping the reins of gentrification, the storyline takes on different connotations:  The Palace Diner in Biddeford is no ordinary place, and the chefs responsible are hardly run of the mill.

They are Chad Conley and Greg Mitchel—both with great chef credentials– who’ve kept their standards high putting out thoughtfully prepared food from their tiny behind-the-wall kitchen.

Chef/co-owner Chad Conley busily filling orders in their tiny kitchen

My impression of the menu on this visit seemed as though it had been cut back. Beyond the classic breakfast plates, at lunch there are only four sandwiches and no big plates.  You’d half expect to find great meatloaf, fried clams or a hot open-face turkey sandwich.  Or one of my favorites that I order at Moody’s, chicken or turkey croquets.

The perfect tuna melt offered at the Palace Diner

I suppose the menu is kept trim because a bigger output is logistically difficult.  Still there is an excellent tuna salad—get the melt—made the way it should be with crunches of chopped celery, onion, lots of salt and pepper and a lemony mayonnaise; two styles of hamburger—classic and a double cheeseburger—and fried chicken, which is also featured on Friday and Saturday nights as a special chick-fry dinner.

For breakfast go early otherwise expect to wait; for lunch, on the later side is better to get a spot at the counter

I didn’t arrive until 1:30 (it closes at 2:00 PM) and the kitchen was out of a few dishes such as their fabled buttermilk flapjacks and their French toast  made with challah bread.

I considered the corned beef hash and eggs, which I recall was truly good– thick chunks of house-cured beef—or any one of the egg dishes as an excuse to have their palace potatoes—a cheffy take on home fries that   render potatoes crisp on the outside and creamy within.

The diner’s great egg dishes enjoy at earlier visits

I ordered a Diet Coke and the counter-guy took out a frosty can from the refrigerator and poured it in my glass.  I asked for some ice only to learn that the restaurant has never had an icemaker.  I guess it was either a choice of fitting in a fryolater or ice machine.  Not a big deal in the realm of things.

The quintessential burger and fries

I’ve already said how good the cheeseburger was so let me mention the fries—a big pile of them on the plate.  These were classic frites, probably double fried to give a firm texture to the potatoes so they don’t wilt.  They were seasoned well with a rain of salt; real crispy-creamy–these were fries as good as classic frites at a French restaurant.

Palace Diner, 18 Franklin St., Biddeford, ME 207-284-0015, www.palacedinerme.com

Hours: 8 AM to 2 PM; dinner served on weekends (check to make sure)

Rating: The quintessential vintage diner with this difference: food is beautifully prepared–simple, classic diner fare done well

Seating: At the counter, 15 stools; no reservations

Parking: adjacent parking lot

$$$: Moderate diner fare