The fall and early winter markets are every bit as satisfying as the summer markets with different, deeper colored vegetables taking center stage. An example of this was at the Fairwinds Farm stand at Saturday’s Crystal Springs market in Brunswick. When I remarked to one of the farmers how beautiful the huge, leafy cabbages were that they had on display, she said, “Wait till those winter cabbages start coming to market– they’re wonderful.” I chose the cabbage because of the huge outside leaves.  Perfect, I thought, to make stuffed cabbage later in the week. But those winter cabbages are truly delicious, with the colder weather intensifying their peppery taste.

Beautiful cabbages at Fairwinds Farm

Soon enough the markets will segue inside when the indoor winter markets open their doors by late November.  Squash and pumpkins are in prime time and will become even more prominent as the fall growing season progresses. And the delicate skins of July’s new potatoes have resplendently grown into fall spuds with thicker skins and earthy flavors the longer they stay in the ground.  These will be available all winter long.  I particularly like a variety called Alaska that Six River Farm sells harvested from their growing fields in Bowdoinham, and when I saw at the Portland market the huge Carola (yellow fleshed) potatoes that Fishbowl grows, another Bowdoinham farm, I scooped those up too.

The scene and produce at various farmers’ markets around Greater Portland

Corn—even now—was very good this summer, and until a real hard frost occurs farmers are still stalking their fields for big juicy ears of corn.    I bought half a dozen from Alewive’s Brook Farm and used them last night for a wonderful corn pudding.  The corn was utterly sweet and lush.  Grab those ears while you can.

Apples are in good supply now at farmers’ markets.  But don’t miss the varieties at the Sweetser Apple Barrel in Cumberland Center.  They have all the usual varieties but look at their limited edition bins for heirloom apples.

Colorful fall peppers; the great colorful tree in front of Bisson’s and multi-hued cauliflower at the market

And those carrots at the market  now are huge.  They don’t have the sweetness or delicacy of new carrots but their flavors have intensified and the orange, red and yellow carrots are beautiful to look at.  Cut them into large chunks for stews or make a great creamy carrot soup.  In fact, fall vegetables are perfect now to endow soups with great flavor. And that’s the big difference between Maine’s summer and fall/winter produce: Summer is the time for sweetness and delicacy and the colder months bring out intense flavors.