If you’re looking for a place to yawn your way through an ersatz Mexican meal, then the new El Rayo in its spiffy space on Free Street might just be the thing. That said, if you’re looking to elevate your appreciation of Mexican food stay away because all you’ll do is cringe over some pretty middling fare.

The space is bright and attractive, very casual with a long bar and tables stuffed in the back

It’s all taco-enchilada-burrito- centric fillings that are wrapped up in mostly soggy tortillas.  That style of Tex-Mex grub can otherwise be so good.  Compared to the taqueria, Taco Trio, which unfortunately has temporarily closed for personal reasons, it doesn’t stack up. Compared to the real Tex-Mex dishes at Terlingua, it’s two different worlds.  Compared to Zapoteca, it’s a different country altogether like buying a sweater from a bin at Wal-Mart compared to a nifty frock from Henri Bendel. But rather it joins the ranks of other unremarkable Americanized Mexican restaurants in town.  Places like Casa Fiesta, Margaritas, et al.

The long,, narrow room lays out well

Still, its fine location in the middle of everything in the Old Port, will make this place a popular hangout, good food be damned. The ambiance is certainly more inviting than going to a Chipotle chain. Many people go to Mexican restaurants as an excuse to gulp down margaritas. And I can envision a lively bar crowd in the evenings, washing down the ordinary grub with a salt-rimmed glass filled with the bar mix.  I haven’t tried El Rayo’s margarita  blend; I’m sure it’s reasonably respectable.

The outdoor dining deck is attractive and will be great for dining when warm weather returns

The setup of how the food is served in the dining room is sort of interesting.  There is bar seating and tables.  But there’s no table service.  You go to the order counter, select your food, pick out a table or a bar seat and then you go up to the end of the bar when your food is ready at the pickup station.  When we were there for lunch this week, we went to a table after placing our order and a service person at the bar brought our food over.  There’s a tip jar at the ordering station and you’re expected to leave a dollar or two.

So far I’ve had a special-of-the day enchilada filled with chicken.  I can’t tell you what else the rolled tortilla held other than an inconsequential mush mashed up with the chicken.  When I went with a buddy later in the week for lunch we both ordered from the taco list choosing plates of 3 tacos at $3.95 each.  These were mostly better.  My friend liked his pescado taco, the fish tasting fresh, not dry.  It was grilled with achiote and stuffed with sliced avocado, mayo and crunchy slaw.

Chicken enchilada with rice and beans

I liked my pulled pork taco, in a mild but pleasant BBQ sauce.  The others like El Pastor or the Carne Asado were rough-and-ready preparations that filled you up without delight.

A plate of mixed tacos

Will I go there again?   They’re open for breakfast (a breakfast burrito is nauseating to me), lunch and dinnertime.  I might go as I did the first time because it was convenient.  My first visit occurred after a visit to the Wednesday  farmer’s market.  I found a parking spot in front of the restaurant and when I was finished shopping I was hungry and went in for a bite. Second time around I met a friend there because it was easy, centrally located downtown and fairly cheap. And since I don’t want to waste more time on this place, that’s all I have to say.

El Rayo Taqueria, 26 Free St., Portland, ME 207-780-TACO www.elrayotaqueria.com

Rating: As you’d expect.  Typical Americanized Mexican dishes of the taqueria variety, no more, no less

Ambiance: Lively watering hole serving casual food in brightly lit, colorful space in convenient Old Port location

Service: self serve

Parking: On street or nearby parking lot

$$$: Inexpensive