It sits between two worlds: at the tip of the Foreside where Cumberland and Falmouth residents reside in one of the most affluent neighborhoods in Maine; then it’s flanked on the cusp of Yarmouth , a village of Peyton Place likeness with its leafy Main Street and surrounding period homes.

That it’s also perched on the banks of the Royal River gives this namesake restaurant, Royal River Grill House, its ultimate fillip of distinction.  But there’s more.  It’s gone through a complete metamorphosis, which happened about two years ago, of which I was unaware because it happened with little fanfare.

At the water's edge, the Royal River Grill House

At the water’s edge, the Royal River Grill House

And because of that I had no idea that this formerly  barn-like  comely establishment on the river had been given a facelift as extreme and successful as the one crafted on one of the great political courtesans of our time, democratic glamour girl, Pamela Harriman whose roster of intimate liaisons and marriages to the rich and powerful were resounding.

Double-height reception area

Double-height reception area

We arrived on a Sunday night last week and were taken aback by the extreme makeover before us.  The restaurant was never a knockout, even with its pretty waterfrontage on the river. The food was always decent too, following many modes over the years from a grill house on the coattails of Fore Street to basic bistro fare.

The well-designed bar and lounge for drinks and dining

The well-designed bar and lounge for drinks and dining

For the last several years the kitchen has been the charge of chef Matthew Kenney.  And the New Look is the result of the owner’s daughter Nicola Maganello, whose shop Nicola’s Home is at the Royal River complex.   The Grill House décor is typical of her Shingle Style look that she perfected in her spec house home designs.

As has always been the case, the Grill House is a hangout for year-round local patronage, being somewhat off the beaten track for tourist–though they’re there in droves in the summer lured by the waterfront setting.

The commodious main dining room

The commodious main dining room

Few restaurants of this type are in the area.  Its closest rival in spirit and look is the old Falmouth Sea Grill reborn as the sleek Dockside Grill, an ultra-modern room with stunning views of Casco Bay.

The vast dining room is divided into 4 areas:  the bar area, which is now a stunning space with an inviting bar for drinks with tables around the room; the main dining room, which stretches along the water, has big tables and even bigger upholstered wing-back style chairs in which to sit; then a rear room, some of which looks over the water, is a space that’s akin to being tucked away in Siberia. The ultimate in choice seating is on the outside deck overlooking the water.

Double-height reception area

Another view of the double-height reception area

The wait staff is young and energetic and display a good understanding of the menu.  It’ a large menu of grilled  fish, meats and American bistro style entrees.

One starter that I enjoyed immensely was the lobster stew.  Big chunks of lobster were held in a beautifully creamy soup with a hint of sherry.   It’s a classic lobster stew: buttery, slightly briny and sweet with cream and sherry—one of the best stews anywhere.

The wedge salad with creamy ranch dressing

The wedge salad with creamy ranch dressing

A wedge salad was classic with lots of tomato, bacon, hard-cooked egg and creamy housemade ranch dressing draped over iceberg lettuce.  Another starter—large enough to be a main course—was a big bowl of steamed mussels cooked in Madeira and garnished with tomato, lemon, herbs and butter. It was a flawless rendition, big meaty Maine mussels and herbaceous, winey broth.

Steamed Maine Musssels

Steamed Maine Musssels

My entrée was a pan-seared pheasant coated in demi-glace with baked delicata squash halves stuffed with farro.  The pheasant, which can be dry if not cooked carefully, was indeed dry and rather tasteless even with all its embellishments and sauce.  The squash was good if not a bid muddled filled with what tasted like poultry stuffing.

Pan-seared pheasant

Pan-seared pheasant

Rib eye in demi-glace (seems to be the kitchen’s go to sauce) was very decent: a robust cut of beef, deliciously sauced, tender and juicy.

Pan-seared rib eye

Pan-seared rib eye

While I was planning to return for a second visit for dinner I decided on lunch instead, if only to see the room in daylight.  The lunch menu is not a light and lively one.  Lots of hefty entrees and sandwiches and some salads with add-ons of meat, fowl or fish.  The waitress said the hamburger was terrific. I didn’t feel like having one.  I figured a good test of a waterfront restaurant is to sample its lobster roll.  The Grill House’s version weighs in at a hefty $22.  For that you get a lobster roll platter—a standard bun filled with big, briny, sweet pieces of lobster on a discreet bed of shredded lettuce and mayonnaise and a ramekin of warm melted butter. With it is a choice of fries or slaw. Get the fries.  They’re terrific. They’re put through a tiered cooking method of being par-boiled first then fried twice, the classic way to get crisp-creamy fries.  They’re seasoned in salt, pepper and brown sugar.  Don’t miss these.

The lobster roll platter

The lobster roll platter

This was a pretty expensive lunch.  After adding up the price for the lobster roll ($22), a soft drink, tax and tip, the meal was $32 for one. But this is high-rent territory and that’s what it costs.

The Royal entry

The Royal entry

For those of us who live in Portland and who take advantage of the wonderful restaurants in our midst, the Royal River Grill House offers good enough reason to take a 20-minute drive for something different in which to enjoy the great setting, decent food and attractive space.

 

Royal River Grill House, 106 Lafayette St., Lower Falls Landing (off Rt. 88), Yarmouth, ME 04096, 207-846-1226 www.royalrivergrillhouse.com

Rating: Solid and good fare

Ambiance: Dazzling decor on the Royal River with outside deck dining in warm weather; enclosed outside porch in cooler months

Service: Very capable

$$$: Fairly expensive

Parking: On-site