It’s that predictable rite of passage when critics at various publications—local and national—compile their year-end lists of the best in film, theater, books, food and dining.  So herewith is my contribution to that formality: what impressed and what didn’t and a stab or two at coming trends in food and dining in Greater Portland.

Evo’s distinctive architectural look

That Portland dining hasn’t taken an evolutionary leap in the past year means that we’ve settled in with what’s here and now–and it all remains very good. The town didn’t get, for instance, a knock-you-down Korean restaurant, all the rage in other (larger) cities. But I’m looking forward to Sichuan Kitchen at 612 Congress St.,  which  is slated to open this weekend; it will be the first restaurant in many years that offers Portlanders the intricate flavors of Szechuan cooking. Though my favorite is still Empire Chinese for its terrific take on Cantonese cuisine.  When I stopped in for lunch the other day (hot and sour soup and spicy pork bao’s) the place had a noontime crush as though it were a Saturday night.

The lunchtime crush at Empire; hot and sour soup with spicy pork bao

Beyond that we’ve gotten a hit of fried chicken at Big J’s  and the more traditional take at Figgy’s, whose fried chicken comes straight from a black cast-iron skillet. 

One of the big hits this past year was the stellar Italian fare served at Solo Italiano with its lush lineup of Genoese cooking.

Crudo, pasta and focaccia at Solo Italiano

Tiki fever came in with a big bang at Rhum, which I liked a lot when it first opened but haven’t been back since its initial debut.

Shellfish platter, liver toasts and rum cocktail

The best still thrives with the established favorites that gave this city its renown as a foodie town: Back Bay Grill, Fore Street, Five Fifty-Five and relative newcomers now established like Lolita, Sur-Lie and Central Provisions (perhaps the leading star still) remain cutting edge and vital.

Center: Back Bay Grill smoked salmon; clockwise: steak tartare, 555; hummus of peas, Sur-Lie; double pork chop, Lolita and fish platter at Fore Street

A discerning dining patronage and the many dishes unique and wonderful at Central Provisions

Washington Avenue continues with the big stride of new restaurants opening along the strip, probably soon to overtake the tipsy swooning along the nearby Middle Street eateries, which seem a little tired now that they’re old hat rather than novel. Roustabout and Terlingua remain the stars on the avenue, and the highly regarded Drifter’s Wife still enjoys phenomenal press coverage.

But I’m anxiously looking forward to the opening of Izakaya Minato, still under construction wraps next door to Terlingua, at 54 Washington St.  Ever since they held a popup at Bao Bao earlier this year, I remain very impressed by their fusion style of Japanese cooking.

At Minato’s pop-up earlier this year, clockwise: cabbage; chicken ; sardines and sauteed greens

Still, we didn’t get the next Eventide or Central Provisions yet to make national waves in the food press.  Those two remain as popular as ever, though I can’t personally attest to the former since I haven’t been back since that fateful day a year ago.

So, don’t look for this list to be a recital of the best restaurants in Portland but rather it’s all about the best dishes that I ‘ve had at so many of my favorite places.  But in that realm, I have an overriding comment: Restaurateurs must  vary their menus.  Many keep the same menu ongoing for months without change.  Is it laziness or sheer economics that keep these kitchens stagnant? Even if the same old dishes are good, they get tiresome without change especially if you frequent a place often.  After three or four visits to a restaurant that you like, you still want to be refreshed and impressed by a chef’s daily innovations.

Terlingua’s ceviche and Solo Italiano’s  gorgeous gnocchi

Of the new realm of restaurants that vary their menus Scales, Terlingua, Solo Italiano, Rhum, Sur-Lie, Lolita, Drifter’s Wife are the notables, among a few others.  Those who don’t (I won’t name names), get with it.  This is a very competitive little local restaurant scene and you must deliver if you want to remain open.

Another event that is rarely found in Portland’s restaurants is the preparation of relatively inexpensive prix fixe for a specific night such as Roustabout’s terrific meatballs and spaghetti Sunday  $40 dinner for two that includes a bottle of wine, salad and the kitchen’s delicious wedge of garlic bread. What a deal!

At Roustabout’s Sunday night special dinner, these are the best meatballs in Portland

Other observations include the stunning remake of Petite Jacqueline at its Market Street location.  The room is very chic, and the food is admirably done.  It may not display the clarity of Fred Eliot’s bistro cooking of his  his chefdom at the old State Street location, but it’s still good and offers worthwhile dining on French cuisine basics.

The new Petite Jacqueline

Speaking of which Eliot is wowing Scales regulars with his take on New England bistro cooking; some of his dishes have decided overtones of French cuisine and others have stayed true to form.  It is, however, probably one of the best restaurants to have opened this year.

Scales, Center: fish and chips; clockwise–Indian pudding, butterscotch pudding and classic  lobster roll

One surprise was the demise of Rosso Bianco, which shuttered after being open for just a short while.  Vinland chef David Levi created a fine restaurant with excellent Italian-inspired dishes.  He says he’s re-opening under a different format.  Time will tell.

At the former Rosso Bianco, eggplant with wide housemade noodles

Mediterranean/Middle Eastern cooking is still a big draw in Portland as found at Tiqa and Evo, two dining establishments that have similar cuisines done well.  Perhaps chef Matt Ginn’s edge at Evo is more enticing but  both are great choices for this evocative cuisine.

Gorgeous food at Evo: lamb, lebna, greens, squid and the gorgeous downstairs dining room

At Tiqa–chicken, beet salad and falafel  plate

Then there’s Tempo Dulu housed in the divine Danforth Inn.  If you want a glamorous evening in a luxurious setting with superb renditions of Southeast Asian cuisine, don’t miss this behemoth of culinary magnificence. Start with  extraordinary cocktails from bar master Trevin  Hutchins  and advance to  chef Michael MacDonnell’s fabulous Southeast Asian fare and you’ll have a uniquely fine dining experience in Portland.

The many refined pleasures at Tempo Dulu, including Huthins’ masterful cocktails.

The surprising change of hands at Caiola’s with star chef Damian Sansonetti at the helm is still a work in progress.  West Enders loved their old Caiola’s, clamoring for chef/owner Abby Harmon’s lusty fare; but they’re still piling in to this West End favorite, and Sansonetti and pastry chef/wife and co-owner Ilma Lopez are doing some compelling dishes.

Veal Parmesan and steak tips well done in Sansonetti’s kitchen at the new Caiola’s

More dining outtakes include other fine moments at Portland’s restaurants this past year such as the often overlooked C Squared at the Westin.

Fine delights (roasted carrots, monkfish and beets) at C Squared at the Westin Hotel

Some of the new and inventive  dishes at Eve’s at the Garden from chef Tim Labonte

In the  realm of neighborhood restaurants Isa–along with Lolita, Caiola’s, Local 188 , Pai Men Miyake  Woodford Food and Beverage and others–remains a beacon of fine bistro dining at this Bayside neighborhood.

Simply prepared fare at the popular Woodford FB: roast chicken, steak tartare and gingerbread

Superb bistro cooking at Isa for an appreciative local crowd: eggplant lasagna and delicate salt-cod fritters