Becky’s for dinner? Surely I jest. But why not? Is the menu much different from the Maine Diner in Wells, Dysart’s in Bangor or Moody’s in Waldoboro, all of whom serve solid down-home New England dinner fare like New England boiled dinner, American chop suey, turkey croquettes, ham steak with a pineapple slice. Oh what bliss to enjoy the simple gastronomy of home cooking.
Classic corned beef hash and the best ham and eggs
Still, as for Becky’s most of us go there for breakfast or lunch. The diner serves some of the best breakfast home-fries and corned beef hash; at lunch a must-have is the crabmeat melt on buttery grilled bread ( I prefer rye).
Must-have: crab melt
In fact I get a daily email from Becky’s daily alerting me to the day’s specials. Favorites include eggs with grilled Italian sausage and home-fries; they serve very decent pancakes and French toast. My other favorite is the egg scramble: bits of ham of cheese (cheddar, American or Swiss) mixed in the scramble. The eggs are not overcooked, still creamy. Or order a big bowl of haddock chowder at lunch and you’ll have one of the best examples of this iconic Maine soup.
Egg scramble, haddock chowder and homemade biscuit
At lunch a sure winner is Friday’s plate of fried local haddock, fries, Cole slaw and the diner’s great tartar sauce. The fish is so white and flaky, not a bit dry and the coating is rich without being greasy.
Friday lunch special, fried haddock with fries and slaw–and a terrific tartar sauce
So what’s for dinner? There’s a menu of specials and the regular menu of daily entrees like meatballs and spaghetti, pot roast, chicken pot pie, chicken and broccoli alfredo to name a few.
When we arrived the other night I knew exactly what I wanted. I’ve seen it served many times when I sit at the counter for lunch. Without hesitation I ordered the fried clam platter: whole belly clams, French fries, the creamiest Cole slaw and a perfect little cup of homemade tartar sauce. My dinner mate also knew what he wanted: American chop suey: elbow macaroni with marinara and beef.
We started with jalapeno poppers, an unnecessary dish when what followed was huge portions piled on plates that are too small. But these are good. The peppers are cut in half and filled with a cream-cheesy mixture, wrapped in bacon, topped with a BBQ sauce and baked. It’s an OK dish, one of those concoctions that appeals to your basest sense of rich food.
At the dinner hour the counter doesn’t fill up as it does during the day
But let me tell you about the clams. The batter coats these meaty local clams quite delicately and not the least greasy. The Cole slaw is creamy with just the right vinegary-sweet Mayonnaise dressing. This is excellent slaw. The fries are well done, crunchy on the outside and creamy within.
American chop suey, fried clam platter and jalapeno poppers
The huge bowl of noodles for the American chop suey was truly good, my friend lapping, leaving behind a good portion of leftovers to take home.
Don’t miss one of Becky’s great homemade desserts: huge cakes, pies and pudding. The best is lemon lush—a fabulous dish of custardy cream cheese coated with nuts and whipped cream. And the slice of chocolate cream pie was another winner. I had a bit and found the filling a bit too instant pudding in texture, but still it was a glutton’s dream.
Chocolate cream pie and lemon lush
At the dinner hour (we arrived at 6:30) you don’t have to worry about parking—there’s plenty of spaces on the lot– or getting a table or seat at the counter. The restaurant is about 1/3 full.
At about $25 each including a beer and soda, you can’t beat the price, the enormity of food served and the care in preparation that the kitchen does so well.
Becky’s Diner, 390 Commercial St., Portland, ME 207-773-7070, www.beckysdiner.com
Hours: 4AM to 9PM
Rating: Solid diner fare, well prepared
Service: fast and friendly
Ambiance: classic city diner
$$$: very moderate
Parking: on site
