Put it in a larger city—say New York, Chicago, LA or even along the cobblestones of haute dining in Boston—Portland’s Cheevitdee  (which means “good life”) could easily qualify as a trophy-food restaurant. But in Portland, where such matters are (relatively speaking) more down to earth, ingrained as farm-to-table panache–seven of us descended upon this Old Port newbie unprepared for a lunch that was ineradicably memorable. This is Thai cooking that’s sensual and elegant.

Cheevitdee’s cool interiors overlooking Boothby Square in the Old Port

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