It’s as though we fell into a swamp of such culinary sludge in one of the nosiest establishments in Portland—our town with so many talented chefs at nearly every corner and intersection—that it was perfectly clear it wasn’t going to get any better. True, this is basically a lounge and bar with food. But even the churlish claims of comfort food barely cut the mustard. And inside it was so dark to the point of dreariness, we still trudged through five dishes—sharables—and pitchers, vats and tall glasses filled with tropical drinks that were anchored in more crushed ice than the defining liquor.
A drink at Restaurant 1
It was then, after consuming buckets of chips, dips, shellfish and blockbuster drinks, we all felt so ill-fed we unanimously concluded that it was time to leave and have a real dinner somewhere else. Our departure came after great expense since we drank more than we ate, and in a range of $6 to $14 per cocktail, the liquor tab can add up on top of the expensive platters of mushy food. This place had been so good when it first opened, with chefs who commandeered the kitchen with authority and inventiveness rather than the meh it has become.
Anadama bread at Scales
Our savior was Scales. It was 8:30 on a Friday night. And Scales is the only restaurant in Portland that employs valet parking; we felt like we were in a sophisticated city where your car is whisked away by white-shirted attendants. What? We’re not in Kansas anymore? It makes going out to dinner in the city’s bustling Old Port a civilized experience.
We were seated immediately at a window table and proceeded to have a wonderful dinner. The kitchen has hit its stride under the direction of chef Fred Elliot and co-chef Travis Olson and sous chef Tony Pastor who have elevated the delights of sophisticated New England bistro cooking into something special. Whether it’s a plate of beautifully pan-seared cod or full-belly clams fried flawlessly, the food here is wonderfully done and served by a staff who make the experience so pleasurable.
At Scales: Scallops (middle); clockwise: pate, steamers, anadama bread and tuna tartare
I dare you not to try the anadama bread slathered in butter and molasses. It’s the best bread in Portland. Considering that we had already eaten, we ordered lighter fare: The bucket of steamers, the sizzling pan of local scallops in salsify cream, a masterful tuna tartare and what has become Eliot’s daily signature dish of classic French pâté. This has become one of Portland’s finest restaurants, and I can’t wait to go back and have a full meal with multiple starters, entrees and one of their great desserts from newly arrived pastry chef, Nicole Harrington.
Scales is as every restaurant should be: eminently approachable and extremely satisfying in a space that is both elegant yet elemental.
Scales, Maine Wharf, 68 Commercial St., Portland, ME 207-805-0444 www.scalesrestaurant.com
Rating: Solid 5 stars
Ambiance: Elegantly casual waterfront restaurant with outdoor waterside dining to come this summer
Service: Solidly efficient
Tables: Very comfortable and spacious
Bar: Full Bar and raw bar, bar dining
Parking: Valet (free)
$$$: Expensive but not break the bank
