By any other standards, Portland is growing by leaps and bounds. Though the leaps don’t generally go above heights of six stories and the level of architecture remains woefully uninspired in urban rebirth. Yet, long the holdout, the waterfront is slowly being rebuilt, especially “Foreside,” the marketing name for the 58 Fore St. complex formerly known as the Sprague Company. And our restaurants have joined the ascent of progress with the rabble of new ones braking ranks with good taste from creative chefs. It seems like nearly every day there’s some new dining establishment that excites and beckons. But one (among a few others) remains as vital as ever, delivering on its aim of fine dining to the hilt like a convivial club serving its huddle of dedicated gourmands. That is, my friends, Back Bay Grill. Now nearly 30 years running, it remains one of Portland’s premiere restaurants. In all the years, I’ve been dining there – at least 15 – it has never once disappointed.
The ever popular bar at Back Bay Grill
It has also never rested on its laurels. But rather it has consistently been the stargazer of great cooking shunning the likes of the dedicated tippler dressing perfectly. Mostly in the European tradition with just the right touch of modernity, it takes the turpitude of farm-to-table cooking out of its turbid zone to elevated heights, making the eternal evening meal otherwise scudded on the shoals of farce to respectable brilliance.
The main dining room and its famous mural; the open kitchen
I had the good fortune to go there recently under the auspices of friends who hosted my birthday bash there. Even at 8:30 in the evening, which was when we arrived and when most dining crowds thin out, the restaurant was still packed to full capacity in a dining city with so many new options.
Table # 7, the coveted corner table where maitre d’ Adrian Stratton tends to diners; bread basket with warmed housemade bread and the signature square glass with my favorite gimlet
It remains Portland’s classic dining spot in the face of trendiness. Other cities like New York and Boston have few leftovers from their respective gilded-dining ages. Boston’s Loche-Obers is gone; New York’s Four Seasons has been transmogrified.
One of the finest Bandol wines from BBG cellar
By Portland’s standards, Back Bay Grill keeps its cool–its top hat in top drawer.
Classic starter: foie gras
The classic cocktails are served in those large square glasses or tall, wide stemware. These are drinks that make a statement with classic style, without resorting to clever names. The wine list remains the most auspicious in the city (the depth of its cellars reminds me of the great collection at New York’s famed La Caravelle circa 1960-2004). The bread is served freshly baked from the oven. And it’s served warm, which is not the case at other restaurants. IDK, I like my bread heated. In fact, I mentioned this to chef/owner Larry Matthews some years ago when I suggested that his delicious bread would benefit so greatly if it was served warm. It has been ever since.
Mussels with shrimp; turban of salmon
Certain dishes remain on the menu always. The beautifully made soup purees, usually based on seasonal vegetables, are silky smooth. That wonderful turban of salmon is as high as a grande dame’s chapeaux. The elegantly wrought piece of beef tenderloin is dressed up in its Sunday best. And it serves two of the best ice cream desserts: ultra-rich white chocolate ice cream with chocolate sauce and little chocolate curls that the restaurant calls “chocolate spaghetti “and the luscious caramel ice cream with bourbon caramel sauce. This is the stuff of godliness.
Rack of lamb
And the service remains the most fluid in Portland. Many of the servers have been there for years. And Portland’s only real maître d’, Adrian Stratton, keeps this dining ship beautifully afloat in glistening seas.
White chocolate ice cream with chocolate spaghetti’ bourbon caramel ice cream with bourbon caramel
It was fitting for me to review Back Bay Grill as my last conribution (June 2014) to “Dine Out Maine,” the restaurant review column in the Portland Press Herald where I said: “The fare is more haute than hipster, or, as long-time chef and owner Larry Matthews puts it, ‘We serve good food done well. We’re not trendy, but we keep up with current tastes.’”
Back Bay Grill, 65 Portland St., Portland, ME 207-772-8833 www.backbaygrill.com
Rating: Always a 5-star dining experience
Ambiance: Swellegant
Service: Excellent
Tables: Big, roomy, comfortable; bar dining, banquettes, tables for 2 and 4
Parking: On street
$$$: Expensive
