Rarely does a new restaurant get it so right at the gate. But then when you have two pros—a highly acclaimed chef and pastry chef, in this case husband and wife who are the owners of the new establishment, Chaval, then the level of success is nearly assured. With Chaval’s opening this week after a renovation of the former Caiola’s in which it’s housed, this duo has brought to Portland one of the most exciting restaurants in the city set to pamper those who cross its threshold.
Devotees of Caiola’s were mostly West Enders who called this place their own like a private dining club when it opened in 2005. It fit into the fabric of the West End like a a brick townhouse wrapped up in an old comfy sweater. The interiors were plain and woody; the food from chef Abby Harmon was deliciously inventive—always something unusually devised with ingredients that you’d never dream of pairing. Who could not love her savory puddings filled with lobster or crab meat swathed in an elegant cream sauce, for instance, or grilled pork chops with caramelized onions; Johnny cakes with fried chicken and maple syrup or crab cakes under a dome of beet puree–homespun but inventive fare highly tasteful and bathed with flavor.
The space at Chaval is open,, larger and very comfortable
So, when Damian Sansonetti and Ilma Lopez bought Caiola’s—both the real estate and the restaurant–we all kind of rolled our eyes that seemed to say, Wow this will be a hard act to follow to please die-hard Harmon fans stumbling out of their brick manses to revel in her cooking.
When they took over the restaurant they kept the Caiola’s menu. Though many of us thought, it’s not the same. Good but not remarkable. Hmmm. Where is that famous Sansonetti touch who installed himself fresh from New York of Daniel Boulud fame where he was executive chef at Bar Boulud into his divine Piccolo, their heavenly dining aerie in the footsteps of Bresca and its former owner, Kristen Dejarlais, another star chef?
Bar dining is already in high demand
Fast forward: After a few months Sansonetti and Lopez closed the Caiola space and the undertaking of a total rehab ensued: not just the space but the kitchen, menu and staff.
The interior of Chaval epitomizes cozy neighborhood haunt with a true bistro menu that’s quite simple but delightful with treasures of flavor that mark each dish. This is not accidental cooking. Indeed it’s rather very intentional, with a mark of high style that quite literally astounds.
Open kitchen overlooks the bar and dining room; chef Sansonetti in the rear
Considerthe tomato bread starter. Thick slices of grilled baguette slathered with crushed tomatoes: the crostini is rubbed with tomato to coat the bread with its juice, then swathed with chunks of softened tomato flesh with garlic and sea salt. Our party of five had to double down with two portions because we just had to have more.
A beautfully made country pate and vegetable torta (inset) were two more wonderful first courses
The cooking borrows from French, Latin, American and Italian cuisines. The fare is hearty but elegant such as the family style dish for two of a masterful coq au vin served in an enamel cast-iron Dutch oven or the Amish chicken slathered with roasted red peppers and white beans. Other standouts were the sword fish with chard and the quail “cordon bleu,” the game bird breaded and fried.
Amish chicken with roasted pepperps and white beans
The starters were ,marvels. Maine potatoes twice cooked and coated in a spicy aioli; blistered Shishito, crisp and savory–even the warm olives in a Mediterranean bath of olive oil were so fine. A tortilla of potatoes, onion and garlic or a vegetable tart—all pleasurable dishes that you don’t come across summarily at Portland restaurants.
Coq au vin served family style for 2
Of course, you can’t miss Ilma’s masterful desserts: the churros with hot chocolate sauce; the berry mélange topped with crème fraiche or bittersweet chocolate with sour cherries and cocoa nibs.
The room is resplendent with more than just a face lift. It appears larger, more open and dramatic with its open kitchen overlooking the long dining bar, the tables along one wall and window tables that will fill easily with the city’s dining swells. There are two additional dining rooms off the kitchen in the rear of the building, and the garden, though not open that night, will assuredly be a magical spot to enjoy al fresco dining.
A trio of desserts by pastry chef Ilma Lopez
This First Look is certainly a glimpse into a thoroughly enticing restaurant in its inimitable neighborhood setting. So that the offering is a worldly hug of cooking, the alchemy of comfort, style and quality that makes it so compelling. Yes, another instant success, but this one is different from all the other star gazers orbiting our town. Or as someone like Donald JR would say, “I love it.”
Chaval, 58 Pine St., Portland, ME 207-772-1110, www.chavalmaine.com
Rating: Superbly cosmopolitan neighborhood boite, a true bistro with wonderful food
Setting: bright, open and spacious
Tables: For two, four or more, bar dining
Service: Excellent
Parking: on site or street
$$$: Very moderate, most entrees , $13 24
