It’s a long time coming for the Roma Café to be resurrected to full glory since its glorious past and ignominious decline (circa 1920s to 1980s). Its latest iteration (and one hopes it lasts for generations) is led by chef Anders Tallberg (formerly chef and co-owner, Roustabout), Mike Fraser (Bramhall Pub below the restaurant) and Guy Streitburger (also of Bramhall). The latter has had a long, steady rise from bus-boy/waiter at the original Cinque Terre where he often left you with the refrain “excellent.” I think he still expresses that lilting phrase, but, in any case, he’s a delightful young man whose restaurant visions have brought him here flawlessly.
The building, 767 Congress, is owned by Burt’s Bee’s founder and woman of consequence, Roxanne Quimby who might also be the wealthiest woman in Maine from her savvy maneuverings of making lip balm into a mega industry. When she bought the building, she gave it her gold-plated touch. She turned the old Roma kitchen into a masterpiece that could easily have served the fabled kitchens of wordly-wise gloire.
HOsatess at reception area
She never did anything with the place and let it lay unused for several years while her foundation had and still does have its offices upstairs.
Many of Portland’s restaurateurs wanted to be in that space, but Quimby wasn’t ready to do that, still thinking she’d house some sort of cooking school or charitable business there. Whatever changed her mind is to our advantage.
The room, though, still needs some sprucing up. The natural features like paneling and intricate modlings should be highlighted more. The lighting, morevover, makes the room seem gray and filmy, and I think the tables should be enhanced with starched white tablecloths as they were in the old days. But the entry hall with its ornate bar is beautiful.
Dining room with tables in front of bay window overlooking the street
And the food is fantastic. Tallberg may have found his niche after all since his earlier efforts at Roustabout were inconsistent.
The menu is all Italian-American classics: a bevy of parms, calamari, lots of veal dishes (marsala, piccata, Milanese and pizzaiola). Plenty of classic pastas, too, such as Alfredo, Bolognese, Genovese et al, and favorites like shrimp scampi, clams casino and even wedding soup, a vintage dish that went out with heritage stage dame, Mrs. (Minnie) Fiske. Indeed, it’s a menu with easily likable fare.
A great touch is the service of the complimentary bread plate: housemade focaccia with excellent dipping olive oil and a side bowl of pickled vegetables.
Calamari, clams casino and garlic bread
This held us in good stead as the five of us waited for our entrée choices to arrive. These included chicken parmesan, eggplant parmesan, veal Milanese, spaghetti and meatballs, and first courses like calamari and clams casino.
What’s also admirable is the cost of dining here is moderate, with many entrees under $20, the veal at $25. And the wine list is well thought out with moderately priced choices.
The chicken parm was one of the best—no, make it the best—in Portland. The veal Milanese was also admirable with its fine coating of crisp breading with a touch of lemon. Really everything was lick-your-plate-clean good. And those meatballs were the real thing: rich, tender, large orbs of meat in a hearty tomato sauce with perfectly cooked spaghetti.
Several different parms–chicken and veal; spaghetti and meatballs
The Roma Café is a neighborhood restaurant reborn. It will be filled with the ubiquity of millennials as well as every other generational age group that likes to dine out and eat well. Streitburger runs the room; Tallberg keeps his kitchen in fine form and Fraser who still oversees the Bramhall Pub downstairs has taken advantage of the Roma kitchen upstairs. That minimal Bramhall kitchen now has use of a fryolater, a flattop and other kitchen must-haves. In fact, I went to the Bramhall a few nights later for a burger and fries. The burger was superb as were the fries. Though I think I’ll still make the Roma Café my room of choice when I head over to 767 Congress St.
Roma Café, 767 Congress St., Portland, ME 207-761-1611 www.romaportland.com
Rating: Excellent, a steady 4 stars with Italian-American comfort food done with style
Ambiance: Old world yet contemporary
Service: Surprisingly good for a brand-new restaurant
Tables: Large and well-spaced for privacy
Parking: Behind restaurant, enough for about 20 to 30 cars
$$$: Moderate
