I wonder who really misses Joe’s Boathouse, the rough and tumble waterfront restaurant that was so popular for years at South Portland’s Spring Point Drive, at Port Harbor Marine. Maybe at one time, when Greater Portland’s dining public was not so discerning, it passed for a decent meal out. But now North 43 Bistro is in its place—a remake so remarkable that you wonder if are you still in South Portland. Housed in a 2-story boxy building, the contemporary space is right out of an Elle Décor spread of modern cool. Its grays and browns only seem to accentuate the water views through the large plate glass windows on the water.
While under construction in early June, North 43 was taking shape (photo courtesy of The Forecaster).
In fact, the entire dining experience is so pleasing that you wonder why there aren’t more restaurants like this dotting Maine’s 3,000 miles of coastline.
The chef and co-owner is Stephanie Brown with restaurateur Laura Argitis (Old Port Sea Grill). Brown came on the dining scene many years ago with her restaurant Sea Grass, which operated in Yarmouth for 8 years. Then she moved on to become the executive chef of the Woodland’s dining room for some years until this opportunity came along.
First floor dining room
Overlooking the marina, there are two dining decks and the first- and second-floor dining rooms, all of which have splendid views. The space on the main level tends to be noisy, a clamor that’s acceptable if you’re a little hard of hearing. At this dinner we were taken to the second floor dining room. At first, I didn’t think we’d like it up there. But let me tell you if you want a more soothing room in which to dine upstairs is it.
The menu is what’s easily described as American bistro. That means there are Asian and European flavors mixing and matching with classic American bistro dishes.
The 2nd floor dining room and the view
The gazpacho was a thick and chunky soup, nicely spicy and served with grilled shrimp on the side. A composed salad was rich and complex with its assertive dressing, croutons and local tomatoes. Entrees like Statler chicken, perfect strip of beef, and classic crab cake were fine examples coming from a chef who knows how to mix flavors and basic ingredients into great dishes.
Gazacho with grilled shrimp; strip steak, crab cake, chicken
The menu changes about every 30 days so if you go regularly you can always have something different. Even on the very wet and rainy evening we were there we felt coddled and secure, with the waterfront harbor view in the background.
North 43 Bistro, 1 Spring Point Drive, South Portland, ME 207-747-4009
Rating: Excellent, well prepared American bistro classics
Ambiance: Cool and chic, a bit sterile but it all works and the views are superb
Tables: Spacious
Service: Very good
Parking: On-site
$$$: Moderately expensive
