In other cities—from, let’s say, Cleveland to Minneapolis, Birmingham to Chapel Hill or to the four corners of the continental United States, including Portland, Maine—the progressive dining-out reawakening that has evolved over many decades, beyond American chop suey and veal- parm Italian American style—brings us to a present-day Disneyland of trendy dining. This has gone beyond the locavorism of American bistro, small-plate kickshaws and fusion fare so that a restaurant such as Bolster, Snow typifies the new breed of chefs and restauranteurs who create dishes that defy hyperbolic categorization. That is, namely, it’s the delicious food prepared with an American touch of freshness and local ingredients defining the bold fare served at Bolster, Snow.
Bolster, Snow is somewhat unique in our dining establishment because it’s housed in a boutique hotel, the newly opened The Francis on that part of Congress Street under serious gentrification. Most of us know the history of 747 Congress Street before it became a chic inn and restaurant. It was last a funeral parlor and before a grand mansion. Until now it remained empty, abandoned until now. The name comes from the original owner of the mansion, Mellen Bolster, whose business partner was Mr. Snow and the hotel derives its moniker from the noted Portland architect, Francis Fassett.
And now the Delois brothers and family transformed this architectural gem into a fairly understated small hotel and equally understated restaurant. There are 15 rooms, a small restaurant dining room and private dining room, flanked by an open kitchen where you see and smell all the good things coming out of the kitchen. The chef’s bar in front of the kitchen fills up fast with diners.
The chef is Nicholas Verdisco, a well-trained chef who was with Jean-Georges Vongerichten at his Inn at Pound Ridge and was lured to Portland to head up the Bolster, Snow kitchen. He has developed a wondrous menu, artfully relying on the bounty of local food available to chefs in Maine. His interpretations are masterful, but light and straightforward.
Of course, there are a few other examples of the breed such as Tempo Dulu in the The Danforth or Union at the Press Hotel, both of whom serve food that is highly evocative. More will follow suit as new luxury hotels pop up on our glittery peninsula.
I’ve been to Bolster, Snow on three occasions and duly impressed. Their signature side dish of carrot fries was one reason to go and the much-vaunted prep of duck breast that has become a favorite of its growing dining cognoscenti.
On my most recent visit it was to have a preview of their winter menu. A six-course tasting was presented to a group of us seated in the private dining room off the reception area. These were merely tastes, portions that were succinct and special rather than regular plate-size portions.
The dinner began with a salad course, a lively blend of field greens (aren’t we lucky to have hoop-house local greens in the winter) with endive, apple, mint, blue cheese and curry.
Perhaps the next course was my favorite: a silken soup of Jerusalem artichoke crowned with a pungent lemon foam and a scattering of toasted hazelnuts. I hope this becomes a regular item on the menu.
The lamb was an ambitious blending of potato puree, pearl onions, scallions and pickled mushrooms. All of the elements put totgether would satisfy the most grizzled gastronome who likes his or her lamb, pink, pretty and gamey.
The market fish was local hake, such an underrated white-flesh fish that is sweet and so flaky served over lentils, beets, carrots, fennel coconut and citrus.
Truly in the dessert category I defy any pastry chef to come up with a better lemon eclair, sandwiching lemon curd, chiboust (pastry cream lightened with Italian meringue), blueberry preserves with a scoop of house-made vanilla ice cream, which I wanted to take home by the quartful.
The restaurant also serves weekend brunch and a special prix fixe menu on Wednesday nights for $40 per person. Ultimately it’s the intimacy of the dining room that is special (albeit it can get noisy). And it reminds me of an old New York favorite, which at the time was one of the most intimate, understated restaurants in New York called The Box Tree, a favorite lunchtime spot acress from the famed Lutece. I recall the moment when a lady friend joined me for lunch and upon her arrival in her commanding British accent exclaimed, “Well if I didn’t know it was chic I wouldn’t know!”
Bolster, Snow, 747 Congress St., Portland, ME 207-772-7496 www.bolstersnow.com
Rating: Excellent, definitely 4 1/2 star material serving inventive, well prepared fare
Ambiance: Casual but elegant
Service: Attentive; ask for Ben, a veteran waiter in Portland
Tables: Well spaced but somewhat small; dine at the fun kitchen bar and watch the chefs at work
Parking: On the street but the Tandem parking lot across the street allows Bolster patrons to park there; hotel has its own lot behind the inn
$$$: Fairly expensive