At this time of year, the Portland Farmers’ Market display at both Deering Oaks and Monument Square resembles a flower show rather than the source for locally grown vegetables and foods. Yes, there’s some local food to buy: canned food leftover from last year; meats (mostly frozen); cheese; some dairy and the great boon in hoop house greens–an essential for the off season. The rest is the leftover storage crops, many of which are getting long in the tooth: woody carrots, potatoes stubbed with ears and blemishes, pretty dull looking cabbages and old beets that take forever to cook.
Theory has it not to shop for food at the supermarket or other food venues when we’re hungry because we’ll just buy items that we don’t really need. A bag of chips in your cart or some other easy eatable? But when I go to a farmers market I like to nibble on local food as I visit various vendors. The thing is you need to have hand food at farmers’ markets to accomplish this–in au natural fashion, of course.
At the Portland Winter Farmers’ Market, there’s scant opportunity to nibble while shopping, though maintaining your locavore status is essentially a given. For a snack-and-shop experience, the one exception is at Swallowtail Farm where farmer Lauren Pignatello features her baked goods at her stand. This past Sunday she brought giant scones studded with local berries. But elsewhere that’s about it unless you like eating raw eggs, chickens, potatoes, beets, and more at the market.
Indeed it was a chilly 40 degrees with brisk winds making it feel even colder at Saturday’s Deering Oaks Portland Farmers Market–-or as one farmer put it, “I’m freezing my gahoonies off.”
Still the frosty weather is part of the market shopping scene at this time of year—at least for the outdoorsy hipster crowd resplendent in winter garb ambling along the leafless byways of Deering Oaks. After all, what’s a week without getting fully sourced up on local Maine food?
Most farmers markets around Maine—which number over 30–have moved to their indoor locations by now. But Portland follows its own set of peripatetic rules. The tradition is to stay outdoors until after Thanksgiving, and the move inside occurs on the first Saturday in December. However, the winter market location is not set in stone yet. One thing is for sure, it won’t be at the Urban Farm Fermentory where it’s been for several years. Unofficially the new space is slated to open in a complex at 84 Cove St., just down from the Fermentory. I rode by there over the weekend to check it out. I didn’t see anything remotely being readied for a market space among the disparate tenants in the buildings there now.
When Maine Street Meats, Bleecker and Flamm (the names of the co-owners) made some news recently on a local food site–their desultory mention was buried in a story about sandwiches. Maine Street Meats has an exemplary one, a Vietnamese bahn mi offered on Tuesdays. But this exquisite delicacy shop also has steamed pork buns on Thursdays as well as thin-crust pizzas daily and stuffed savory breads and double chocolate chip cookies that are popular with the lunch crowd every day.
The week that was Harvest on the Harbor showcased Maine food and dining in stunning display. But of all the events the one that cast the widest net was the Stage Dinner at Merrill Auditorium. It’s where some of the region’s best chefs cooked a six-course dinner for a seated crowd–but this time we were not there sitting in the audience but rather participating at tables set up on stage. It virtually allowed everyone to experience the cooking from six restaurants all in one fell swoop.
October brought in the first fall weekend that seemed like classic autumn in Maine: puffy cumulus clouds hanging from bright blue skies; the farmers’ markets in full swing with squash, apples, Brussels sprouts and vibrant root vegetables looking as luscious as ever. Even what we eat and where we go to have it takes on the hues of seasonal change. I made my first meatloaf since last year. Sweaters were unpacked, socks covered ankles, jackets donned and a wool blazer worn in the evening. Even a stroll through Portland’s Saturday farmer’s market made me think I should have worn gloves since the brisk winds made the 48 degree temperature feel much colder.
By all accounts it was a booming summer season in Maine with the state’s restaurants, hotels, waterways, mountains and coastal plains chock-a-block with the lolling tourist brigade. I chose to end the summer’s calendar season over Labor Day weekend in the peaceful hamlets of North Haven Island where this coastal idyll didn’t escape the summer crowds basking in perfect weather.
Pulpit Harbor was crammed with boaters, both local and summer residents. The little village of North Haven was a bustle, too. Of course all things being relative, you could still hear a pin drop as the typical quiet of island life prevailed beautifully, with pristine weather–a balmy humidity-free 75 degrees.
The Slipway on the Saint George River in Thomaston is a great summer destination for dockside dining
We all have our favorite clam shacks and lobster pounds but one that sets itself apart is the Slipway in Thomaston. The sum of its parts is so much more complex than the typical fried food havens with their waterfront settings. We set out for it on Saturday morning, leaving behind a sunny Portland only to arrive in Thomaston where the storm clouds hung heavily in the sky emitting a fine mist throughout the day.
Because of the weather the dining dock, which spans 120 feet into the mouth of the Saint George Giver, was closed. In good weather during lunch or dinner you sit at any of the umbrella picnic tables; though the choice spots are at the end of the dock where several round tables are set up next to the wet bar. You feel as though you’re about ready to set sail.