Restaurants

The American breakfast, bacon and eggs, is alive and well  at Portland diners and hash houses.  But the tab has gone sky high.  While we’re all having sticker shock as consumers, perhaps the most egregious price hikes beyond the gas pump are for something we’ve long taken for granted.

The basic diner-menu breakfast used to include two eggs, bacon, ham or sausage, home fries and toast. I remember it being $6.99 not too long ago.  But after a  doing a round up of breakfast haunts, which I started in January, I’ve found it’s a solid $10 to $12 and higher for basic breakfast fare– the pay more and get less syndrome.  It’s like the  pound of coffee that shrank to 12 ounces some years ago; or boxed  cake mixes now at 15. 25 ounces that used to weigh in at 18.5 ounces. Even the shampoo that I’ve used for year came out with packaging that proclaimed  a “new look, but same old formula”  The new look was a shrunken bottle  weighing 10 ounces instead of 12.  So far a  pound of butter is still a pound.  Woe be the day when those 4 ounce sticks become 3; there’d be mayhem in kitchens everywhere.

Two eggs, sausage patty, home fries and raisin toast at Moody’s

The reliable greasy spoons that we love are charging ahead with full seats  after the pandemic closed off most dining counters.  Here’s what you get nowadays  at breakfast places in and around Greater Portland’s diners and dives.

Hot Suppa.  Only a few stools  at the counter are available in this shoebox of a space, so one doesn’t have much choice but to sit close to your neighbor. There is still table seating.  Their classic B&E is called the Hollis and costs  $12 or $16 with bacon or sausage.   But the eggs are good, though no crispy edges and the thick bacon is a bit chewy.  The hash browns are tasty, reasonably crisp, but I’ve had better.  And what’s with the one slice of toast instead of the usual two?  All in all not a bad breakfast. B+

B&E plate–the Hollis–at Hot Suppa with one slice of toast and classic hash browns and smoky bacon

Hot Suppa’s evocative mural at the entry vestibule

Read more…

If  Chaval is the ultimate Mom and Pop West End Portland restaurant, then proprietors husband and wife team Damian Sansonetti and Ilma Lopez have achieved the pinnacle of success through sheer drive and talent.

During the Covid years, they strove to stay in business with a brisk take-out menu  with dishes like coq a vin and any one of Ilma’s desserts. But they’ve looked past the  pre-pandemic rah-rah  of Portland’s  much chronicled ascent as dining wunderkind. And they’ve emerged better than ever crafting their menu of  seasonal French and Spanish cooking with a bit of American bistro fusion for good measure.

The space still epitomizes the core of an urbane dining room. What’s more,  Chaval has grown grown into more than a neighborhood spot to garner  a crowd that’s more than just locals. In the process they’ve emerged with a James Beard Foundation nomination for best chef (Sansonetti) in the Northeast.

Chaval circa 2017

Read more…

It took a long time for the The Front Room to get back to normal  after Covid-era dining upheavals.  It’s not yet open 7 days per week but enough of the days (Wednesday to Saturday, dinner only) to make it a steady neighborhood hot spot for dining.  The food is well prepared, peppered with plenty of home-grown ingredients to deem it locally sourced.

The room, however, is not much different.  Tables are not as close together as before but still packed into the room.  I’m not aware that when the restaurant was “closed for renovation” that it included one of those new air filtration systems.  I’d have liked to see tables spaced  farther apart,  and until Portland requires vaccination (x3) cards for entry in all restaurants (and public spaces) as in New York City, I’ll still remain wary of dining-in at places that I’d love to return to.  But any regulations regarding masks, vax cards or otherwise are met by the inane political divide that shrouds our pandemic ideology.  Ultimately the mask rule here and elsewhere  is useless without more stringent controls like proof of vaccination in your back pocket. Today the City Council voted to repeal the mask mandate, another misstep by an out-of-step council.

The bar, the dining room and starter mixed green salad

Read more…

I’d rather have a Wendy’s or Burger King than  the pitiful fried chicken cutlet  from Chick Fil A that was delivered last week while waiting on line for over a half hour.

I had gone to Market Basket for my weekly shopping.  It’s good for grocery items like detergents and household cleaners because  the shelves are fully stocked and the prices are as good as Target or Walmart.

Across the parking lot where this establishment is located, I noticed that the line at Chick Fil A was relatively short–about 50 cars.  I joined the line.  An attendant came to my car and I opened my window.  He asked what I wanted to order.  I said I didn’t know because I had never been to the place and didn’t know the menu, which wasn’t visible being hundreds of feet away.  He looked surprised.  I knew enough to order the basic sandwich.

The line at Chick Fil A

“Anything come with that? I asked.  He responded by asking what I would like.  I said just give me a plain sandwich.  I learned that it comes with pickles and a side sauce. I asked for the honey mustard sauce.   I paid. This was a good system and the attendants did a good job.  When I got to the delivery window I was amazed that they knew my name and my order.  I guess they keep track of the cars as they crawl along until reaching the pickup window.

Read more…

Originally “Food for Thought” was created as a food diary–a blog with daily entries about my personal focus on local food, farms and restaurants in Portland when the term locavore was new to the lexicon and blogging was a quirky endeavor. It first appeared online at Downeast Magazine in around 2001 and later commissioned by an enterprising editor at the Portland Press Herald where it ran for years until it morphed into the Golden Dish.

For better or worse, the space quickly became focused on restaurant reviews, a shaky moment for some or a stellar  time for others.

It was exciting to eat my way through Portland’s restaurant renaissance.  Suddenly it was no longer just Back Bay Grill and Fore Street as keepers of the flame but rather newcomers like Five Fifty Five, Bandol, Caiola’s, Hugo’s, Cinque Terre, Vignola and Duck Fat joined the group if only to make the old guard strive to be better.

Below are some photos from the past of dining in Portland, most around 2015-2016, as far back as my current Photoshop catalogue goes.

Five-fifty Five back in the day 2015 and much earlier in the early aughts

Read more…

I used to like Cong Tu Bot pre pandemic before the Big Renovation. Now with its only daytime hours I’m not necessarily in the mood for spicy Thai food at breakfast or lunch. One of a few dishes available since everything else was sold out at 11:45AM, I waited some 30 minutes for my single dish of cold chicken.  (How long does it take to cook cold chicken?) But what really turned me off is how the restaurant operates. Staff is abrupt. And god forbid if you walk in not wearing a mask (75% of Portlanders are fully vaxxed and if you’re old enough, boostered too) you’re figuratively slapped across the face like you’ve committed some venal act. A simple request to don a mask would have been more appropriate rather than barking an order.   Plus the actual dining (outside only) is very uncomfortable with only a few tables and a few lean-against dining shelves. Twenty dollars for a cereal-bowl size of food ( it was delicious, however) seemed excessive. Thankfully the free ice water from a self serve cooler inside (mask required) was free and very cold.

Cold chicken

Read more…

As much as I long for New York bagels and pizza, the same can be said for Portland’s pre-pandemic restaurant scene.  Sure we were once considered the restaurant city of the year (2018) when Bon Appetite’s bestowal proclaimed us as the best small town/city for dining in the nation. Yet post pandemic it’s a mixed bag of regrettable losses (Drifter’s Wife, Piccolo, et al) tempered by merely a few denizens of the exotic lacquered worlds of food and dining.  Some of the new ones are not up to snuff and others go relatively unnoticed  for a variety of reasons (Knotted Apron and Broken Arrow are examples).  My advice: If you’re planning on opening a restaurant check all the boxes before asking diners to spend $100 for a mediocre meal.  Of course we want to support the local economy, and perhaps no other industry has had a tougher time than restaurants.  But, hey,  if you’re offering more than diner food (which I love), it behooves chefs to do it extremely well.  That goes for the dining space environment, too.  The space has to be Covid preventive (spacing and masks and proof of vaccination ) and beyond all comfortable and pleasing to the eye.

Basically, Portland dining is not what is was  when it offered so much variety and quality to choose from.  When I go out to eat it’s to the same old places because few others beckon as though the proverbial  come-hither finger is limp.  All understandable from closures, limited indoor seating and hard to get reservations.   If it weren’t for outdoor dining options, I’d be sitting at home tinkering with the next chicken thigh recipe.  And while take-out is the live-saver for restaurants, tepid take-home food is never as good when it lands on your kitchen counter.

Perhaps it’s my limited time dining out these days: My discretionary income isn’t what it once, and I limit myself to dining establishments in which I feel comfortable.  That’s defined by good spacing between tables or good opportunities for outdoor dining and good air filtration systems inside, that sort of thing. The places that I miss the most regardless of pandemic losses,  are Five Fifty-Five in its heyday or Caiola’s for its irreverence and delicious food. That and the ability to sit at the bar for dinner –at many places–was always a treat and a preference. With Chaval the replacement mainstay in the West End and a treat to go to, its indoor dining options are still limited with mostly the patio (the prettiest in town) and sidewalk dining on the ticket.  Their bar was the best one in town besides Fore Street.

As for post Pandemic dining, are we really “post?”  See this remembrance.

The bar flanked by dining room

Read more…

I went there this past Friday because I read a Facebook post that this was going to be its last weekend.  It has been one of my favorite places in Portland to enjoy not only great food-truck fare (courtesy of star chef Matt Ginn of EVO fame) but the view had been fantastic last year.  I noticed this at my first visit of the season several months ago when the food truck marina was not up to its past scenic glories that it had in its first year. The bar area had been moved down a bit, the dining bar shelf that ran along the water’s edge was gone, and the bar still hadn’t been constructed yet.

The problem was that the city mandated that all structures at the site couldn’t be movable, that they had to be constructed in a less permanent nature and it took a long time to get the city staff to coordinate its rulings because of pandemic absenteeism at City Hall.

Here is my story from last year when the marina bar opened. See link

This was the scene at the newly opened EVO X food truck marina in June of 2020

The marina and its patrons and food from scenes in June of 2020

Read more…

Places like Cafe Louis make a traditionalist like me wonder if the classic 3-course meal will become a dark shadow of the past. Think Back Bay Grill where for a $108 prix fixe 3-course menu one can dine beautifully with civility at every turn; it’s where tables and location matter (everyone wants that corner table, which I think is called #7) or any other spot along its banquettes and large round tables.

Sharables and small plates have been with us forever now,  but I miss the single first course like a velvety soup starter or a main course like rack of lamb with two side vegetables such as potato gratin and mousseline of peas and a finale-worthy dessert.

Cafe Louis is a Costa Rican  Caribbean  style dining hangout offering such classics as carne asada and patacones (fried plantains); these two dishes, among others, were beautifully presented but not without inherent  faults. But my biggest gripe about dining there on a particularly humid, hot evening was the riveting noise level over the sound system.  Besides huddling in some very close quarters  in stifling heat, the percussive beat of the music playing rivaled the blare of 21 trombones.  I was also a bit befuddled at the closeness of the tables while Delta rages all around us like an insipid fog.  This place definitely speaks to the requirement that all restaurants should mandate that you show either a fully vaxxed card or recent Covid test.  Who knows?  The dowdy couple sitting next to us in their Sunday best might have been raging carriers.

Crab ceviche

Read more…

From Judy Gibson to Boda to Scales and the Luna landscape, Izakaya Minato and  last and very the least the  sandwich shop Cera,  mostly remarkable and a few blemishes.

Luna at the new Canopy Hotel  is a winner. It’s everything a sophisticated, sleek urban outpost should be.  Interesting bar food and drinks, it’s essentially all about the view and the uber chic interior with its outdoor terrace overlooking the best of downtown Portland by the sea.  It makes you wonder  whether  we’ll ever have residential high rises with views like this from walls of glass overlooking our glorious waterfront?  The spate of new condo buildings in Portland  is architecture at its worst.  What is this trend of multi-faced edifices? (Brick meets siding?)  Hobson’s Landing is the worst offender.  Who’s paying nearly$1 million for these apartments with terraces that look like tenement fire escapes?  The Canopy building a few blocks over, however, is beautifully done, with its chic lobby and concierge entry to the Luna rooftop.

Canopy lobby, Luna rooftop pimento cheese and the Luna dining room and terrace

Read more…