Evo

The point is,  can you get into any restaurant in Portland  on the spur of the moment? No.   From persnickety websites to various ways of reserving a table, it’s not so easy.  Online is encouraged, but in person or phone discouraged.  Tuesday has become the new Monday, both of which have been the day that most restaurants are closed.  Then there’s the Wednesday dilemma–some closed, a few open–where dining out can only take place Thursday to Sunday.  Dining tables inside or out are precious few to reserve.  If your favorite restaurants are serving at full capacity, where every allowable table is ready to be booked, the restaurant’s staff may still be limited, thus affecting the easy sway that restaurants used to enjoy–yes, I’ll say it–“pre-pandemic.”

The perfect Negroni at EVO

One place that I often visit when I don’t feel like cooking is a neighborhood eatery (Munjoy Hill) that specializes in pizza.  The problem is you can’t call up to order a pie.  It must be done online.  Recently I walked in since I was in the neighborhood to place my order for pizza pie.  I was told it must be done online. (Why not in person?)  I answered that I have problems with the website, filtered by TOAST, the popular format for online ordering.  Sometimes you hit it just right and can breeze through the process.  But doing it on a cell phone is not effortless if downright impossible.   It just it doesn’t work that well.  I spent 5 minutes once looking for the menu on which to place my check mark to order.

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Another foray into Boston dining led me to Banyan Bar and Refuge, which bills itself as a modern Asian gastropub.  I read about it in Boston Magazine where it was given top billing on two lists: The best 25 restaurants of 2015 and the 50 best restaurants in Boston 2016.

The bartender at the hotel where I was staying couldn’t warble higher and louder to sing its praises.  There were other restaurants on the lists that sounded just as intriguing such as O Ya, Shojo—you can see I was attracted to Asian restaurants—or more traditional haunts like Barbara Lynch’s Menton  or the very avant garde Tasting Counter in Somerville.

The bar and dining room at Banyan

The bar and dining room at Banyan

Interestingly the night before my trip to Boston, I went to Evo in Portland where we had an extraordinary impromptu dinner that had so much style and taste—a hard act to follow anywhere and at one of out city’s best restaurants.  And it was still on my mind when I began my dinner at Banyan.

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This is not a traditional restaurant review  but rather it’s intended to report  on the newly invigorated menu at Congress Squared at the Westin Portland Harborview.  Last Thursday night  a dinner was prepared for press and industry folk  to sample the new dishes with chefs Brian Anderson (executive chef) and Elisha (pronounced Elijah) Irland (chef de cuisine) running the show.

Clockwise: C2"s banquettes; chef Brian Anderson (right) and attendees at the press and industry dinner

Clockwise: C2″s banquettes; chef Brian Anderson (right) and attendees at the press and industry dinner

Each dish—and there were many—were killer efforts that the kitchen team produced with suavity and assuredness.  The smoked duck breast, for example, over a cunningly devised puree of rosemary with dots of roasted grapes and garlic confit created an arsenal of flavor that put the whole chorus of fine cooking on a high note. The sweet-smoky duck breast soaking up the vivaciousness of the rosemary puree underneath was further complimented by the umami of  sweetly pungent pairing of grapes and garlic confit.

Smoked duck breast with rosemary

Smoked duck breast with rosemary

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It’s been another banner year in 2015 for Portland area restaurants, with the best and brightest showing remarkable menus and innovative cooking, giving the birth of cool cuisine vitality.

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

Lobster tartine at The Honey Paw

While last year was all about small plates, 2015 mixed it up with both small and large plate menus in the mix. Of the 20 or so new establishments in our region, only 10 really made the grade as being special.  Union, Isa, East Ender, Tiqa, Roustabout, Evo, Tempo Dulu, Terlingua, The Honey Paw and even Cape Elizabeth chimed in with Rudy’s in the heart of that coastal suburb.

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

The spectacular space at Evo serves divine Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare with chef Matt Ginn at the helm

What was distinctive about these newcomers was the Big Money spent on décor, creating unique, often luxurious interiors beyond the traditional post and beam and brick confines that Maine restaurants favor.

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Not every restaurant has to be cutting-edge to satisfy. But what makes a restaurant a “Stone Cold  Stunner” was my first thought when I read a recent Eater Maine post featuring the best restaurants of 2015 in various categories?  The way it works is that Eater selects the nominees and then asks readers to rate their picks.  Other categories include Hottest Restaurant, Best Chef, etcetera and etcetera.

In the category Stone Cold Stunner a very curious entry caught my attention. “Eating at the Treehouse really does feel like dining inside a giant, magical treehouse,” it said.

The bar room at The Treehouse

The bar room at The Treehouse

Huh?  What’s the Treehouse?  I must have missed this one in our great world of fine dining in Portland.  After looking at some of the posted photos I realized this was the former Pat’s Café, the local favorite and long-running eatery ( though intermittently closing and reopening numerous times) along the little food world of Steven’s Avenue (Siano’s Pizzeria and Pat’s Meat Market)  otherwise dominated by Deering High School and the Sisters of Mercy convent.

Still, there are so many new restaurants that are now part of our dining universe that could have—and should have–been nominated.  The rarefied rooms of Tempo Dulu come to mind as does the swath of urbane sizzle perfected by Union at The Press Hotel.  At least Evo—truly a stone cold stunner—is at this writing the front runner.

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Two totally different cookbooks are worth looking at because the collections are so unusual. The first is from southern chef John Currence, a James Beard winner and his book. Pickles, Pigs and Whiskey.  He owns several restaurants in the south, most notably his City Grocery in Oxford, Mississippi. He grew up in New Orleans, but his ideologies span the culinary globe.  Consider this bon mot: ‘Where there is rosemary…let there be lemon.”

Pickles, Pigs and Whiskey by John Currence

Pickles, Pigs and Whiskey by John Currence (photo of book cover)

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The chatter on Roustabout–set to open sometime this fall along Washington Avenue (East Bayside’s  neo-hipster iteration of Middle Street’s  restaurant row)–is that it will feature Italian-American cuisine or, as later amended, a modern-day version thereof.  I’ve been looking forward to getting carefully crafted veal Parm, lasagna, spaghetti with Sunday sauce and meatballs.  But now I’m not so sure if that’s what the place will deliver. (Early menus posted on Instagram several months ago showed a menu of rustic Italian dishes.)

Instead, if it’s any indication, the extraordinary meal I had at this fledgling’s latest collaborative popup dinner on Tuesday night at Piccolo (what a collaboration!), veal Parm, et al, may  wait in the wings.

The avid dining scene at the Roustabout popup held at Piccolo; bottom right, co-paprtner Kip Paschal

The avid dining scene at the Roustabout popup held at Piccolo; bottom right, co-partner Kip Paschal

Admittedly it’s untimely to review a restaurant before its front doors have opened for business.  But in the case of Roustabout, they’ve made their proverbial splash already after two popup dinners.  The first was at Tandem Bakery (menu: lasagna, Caesar salad, garlic bread, and tiramisu) which I did not attend, and now the second unwrapping at Piccolo, which I attended.

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Deep down in its warped well of vocabulary wisdom the Urban Dictionary defines foodie as “a douchebag who likes food.”  If that’s the case then Portland’s streets are teeming with them, and the general wisdom is for us locals to stay away from our most formidable dining haunts until the turistas all leave in the next 30 to 60 days.  In fact, one local savant confided that he won’t step foot into a place like the revered Central Provisions until the masses go home. Indeed, it may be that of all the new restaurants in our dining world, the one that lives up so supremely to its accolades is the venerable Central Provisions.

The serious look of diners at Central Provisions seated at the dining bar facing the open kitchen; lower right, chef Chris Gould

   The serious look of diners at Central Provisions seated at the dining bar facing the open kitchen; lower right, chef                                                                                                                        Chris Gould

I wasn’t planning to visit there until the fall, but destiny prevailed as a parking spot opened up a few doors away while cruising down Fore Street during the lunch hour earlier this week. I took this as my cue to enter this bastion of gastronomy for a bite of lunch.

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After a scintillating dinner at Tempo Dulu Saturday night, one of nearly bacchanalian proportions, everywhere else I ate last week was so tame (though pretty good) by comparison. (Shown on the intro page is mixologist’s Trevin Hutchins Wayang Cocktail)

A trio of desserts at Tempo Dulu

A trio of desserts at Tempo Dulu

Last night’s options, however, were a mixed bag of where to eat since many favorite places are closed on Sundays, a mistake perhaps if restaurateurs are looking for the big dollars from the brigade of tourists now everywhere in Portland.

I considered going to Sur-Lie, but they close down for Sunday dinner after serving their very popular brunch earlier in the day.

Chef Matt Ginn's terrific lamp preparation at Evo enjoyed on earlier occasionis

Chef Matt Ginn’s terrific lamp preparation at Evo enjoyed on earlier occasionis

Ebb and Flow, on teeming Commercial Street, is also closed on Sundays and I haven’t been there in a long while.  Same for Tiqa.  Keeping with the growing Mediterranean theme gaining popularity, I considered stopping at Evo but parking anywhere in the congested Old Port that night was difficult.

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In our high-octane world of restaurant wunderkinds, two new standouts that opened last week strive to put Portland resolutely on the star-studded map of dining glamour:  Evo, housed at the base of the Hyatt Place Hotel, and Tempo Dulu in the breathtakingly beautiful Danforth Inn.

Evo enjoys a prime location at the retail corner of the Hyatt Place hotel on Fore Street

Evo enjoys a prime location at the retail corner of the Hyatt Place Hotel on Fore Street

I’ve paid multiple visits to both, and when you experience two  restaurants that deliver nothing less than WOW, you’ve hit the dine-out bonanza.  This week’s review is all about Evo, which only leaves me breathless to report back next Friday on Tempo Dulu.

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