Palace Diner

You’ve got to be a brave chef to put tongue on the menu.  And it is offered here in flying colors.  Flood’s  chef/owner Greg Mitchell has proven his mettle in many ways, especially at the Palace Diner where he and co-owner and chef Chad Conley (of Rose Foods bagel-Jewish deli fame) have made tuna melts and flapjacks an art of the meal.

But at Flood’s, recently opened in the Francis Hotel as an independent restaurant (it has its own entrance apart from the hotel but no relationship to the functionality of the building as a 15-room inn), the tongue in question stands brazenly apart among less rarefied entrees.  Unless you consider chicken schnitzel rarefied.  That too is on the menu and is as large as the breast from a condor, covering a platter- size plate with no space to spare.

The main dining room with banquettes and booths and the ante room with several tables

More to the point, the menu is an odd compilation offering a list of dishes under the heading of Dinner such as cheese toast, salad, clam and mussel toast among the four lone entrée-style dishes –seared beef tongue, homemade pork sausage, whole roasted mackerel and chicken schnitzel.  These are served unadorned.  If you want a side, they’re separately listed: grilled summer squash, charred broccoli, marinated beans and fries.

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Onion bagels  epitomize the New York bagel more than any other variety in the city known for its water-bath wonders.  Indeed growing up in New York Sunday mornings meant bagels for breakfast, with lox and cream cheese and sometimes white-fish salad or a whole fish of smoked sable.  We had the proverbial baker’s dozen, which included plain, sesame seed and onion.  Occasionally an egg bagel (with onions) was included in the mix and a few bialies, too.

Union’s basket of onion bagels

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Biddeford’s Palace Diner has in two short years become the holy grail for diner geeks out for hash, home fries, stack cakes, etcetera, of the highest order. Call it the quest for the ultimate diner-car cuisine– pretty basic food elevated to something culinary and worthwhile.  Consider their classic cheeseburger, which I ordered the other day on my first time back to the place in nearly two years.  It was one of the best I’ve had in recent memory.  It was slathered with mayonnaise, mustard, housemade pickles, shredded lettuce and a draping of perfectly melted Cheddar cloaking the beef patty –not the thickest in the world— but it had great char and flavor from good-quality beef.  Even the roll stood up to all this burger frippery.

The vintage, classic Palace Diner

The vintage, classic Palace Diner

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What prompted my Sunday morning excursion to the Market Basket in Biddeford was that all of Hannaford’s stores stopped carrying a product that I’ve purchased there for years.  I immediately researched all of the likely stores that could conceivably carry it.  No luck at Shaw’s, Walmart (even the supercenter), IGA Pond Cove Market in Cape Elizabeth and Smaha’s in South Portland.

Sunday morning at The Market Basket in Biddeford

Sunday morning at Market Basket in Biddeford

The Market Basket is the only store in Maine to carry the almighty, if not elusive, Benecol.   It’s in the dairy case next to the butter and butter substitutes like Earth Balance and I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter and other locums of limited appeal. When I would do Google searches to find the product all that would come up was Beneful, the dog food!

Two types of Benecol at Biddeford

Two types of Benecol at Biddeford Market Basket

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