Rose Foods

You’ve got to be a brave chef to put tongue on the menu.  And it is offered here in flying colors.  Flood’s  chef/owner Greg Mitchell has proven his mettle in many ways, especially at the Palace Diner where he and co-owner and chef Chad Conley (of Rose Foods bagel-Jewish deli fame) have made tuna melts and flapjacks an art of the meal.

But at Flood’s, recently opened in the Francis Hotel as an independent restaurant (it has its own entrance apart from the hotel but no relationship to the functionality of the building as a 15-room inn), the tongue in question stands brazenly apart among less rarefied entrees.  Unless you consider chicken schnitzel rarefied.  That too is on the menu and is as large as the breast from a condor, covering a platter- size plate with no space to spare.

The main dining room with banquettes and booths and the ante room with several tables

More to the point, the menu is an odd compilation offering a list of dishes under the heading of Dinner such as cheese toast, salad, clam and mussel toast among the four lone entrée-style dishes –seared beef tongue, homemade pork sausage, whole roasted mackerel and chicken schnitzel.  These are served unadorned.  If you want a side, they’re separately listed: grilled summer squash, charred broccoli, marinated beans and fries.

Read more…

Fifteen miles later driving from Portland to North Yarmouth, I arrived at the Purple House for my weekly stash of their wonderful Montreal style bagels.  Instead I found this note:

Note pinned to the door at the Purple House

I stood in the parking feeling rather foolish, best laid plans gone asunder to do early morning Sunday chores quick and easy.

To salvage this wasted trip and assuage my hunger, I went a quarter mile down the road to Stone’s Café.  When the Purple House opened the folks at Stone’s were not happy, thinking that they’d lose their breakfast and lunch business to the upscale bagel maker and chef.

Ridiculous. Talk about apples and oranges, Stones is to Purple House as instant mashed potatoes is to potato gnocchi.  The twain doesn’t compete.

Stones, 424 Walnut Hill Rd. (Route 115), North Yarmouth; 207-829-4000

I’m an old fan of Stone’s Café discovering it over 15 years ago when it was run by the same family (whose name escapes me) that kept that place humming for decades.  Here was home-cooking bar none, big bulging plates of old-fashioned country fare served with downright gusto to an adoring local patronage. The weekly Saturday night dinners were legendary as big platters of prime rib were wheeled around like prized oxen.

Read more…

There might be a war of words to explain the difference between potato pancakes and potato latkes.  For the record they are essentially  the same, the latter being the conventional term for this delicacy of Jewish cooking that are traditionally served during Hanukah. Prompted by a Facebook post a while ago by one of Portland’s leading food writers who claimed, in so many words, that she couldn’t get enough of the latkes made at Rose Foods, I decided it was time to try them.

Rose Roods” potato latkes

They’re only available on weekends, and this past weekend they were my brunch meal.  You can have them plain with sides of applesauce (homemade?) and sour cream or dress them up with caviar or smoked salmon.

I opted for the plain version.  Any more than that would have meant nearly $20 for a plate of three potato latkes with the $8 surcharge to include either topping.

Read more…

The onions are chopped and then put through a grinder extracting the onion juice, the liquid of which is used in making the bagel instead of water and the remaining onion shreds are dehydrated, and the bagel gets coated with their pungency.  The onion extraction gives these bagels intense onion flavor.

Onion bagels at Rose Foods

That’s the art of the onion bagel as explained to me by Kevin Gravito, the bagel baker  at Rose Foods. He also said they’re more labor intensive to make than other bagels.

Read more…

By special request my need for a true New York style onion bagel arrived at Rose Foods  this past Sunday.  Studded with onions and salt these were the true bagels of my youth growing up in New York.

A basket of onion bagels fresh out of the oven at Rose Foods

To me the onion bagel is iconic beyond all others.  Though the most universally popular is still the everything bagel, which I find too overwhelming, an ersatz plotz of disparate spices coating the most common bagel.

Read more…

Onion bagels  epitomize the New York bagel more than any other variety in the city known for its water-bath wonders.  Indeed growing up in New York Sunday mornings meant bagels for breakfast, with lox and cream cheese and sometimes white-fish salad or a whole fish of smoked sable.  We had the proverbial baker’s dozen, which included plain, sesame seed and onion.  Occasionally an egg bagel (with onions) was included in the mix and a few bialies, too.

Union’s basket of onion bagels

Read more…

This is a brief note on one of most intriguing, finely tuned food establishments that’s just begun its orbit around Portland’s daring-do dining circles.  Rose Foods at the site of the former BreaLu Café space on Forest Avenue strives to be both a bagel shop and Jewish deli, a surprising creation from the white- bread hands of noted chef Chad Conley who’s cooked in some of the top restaurants in New York and Portland and has created the inimitable Palace Diner where his tuna melts and flapjacks are legendary.

The ordering line at Rose Foods

Read more…