Portland has two distinguishing features that separate it from other cities looking to make a difference. One fact is that it’s one of the shortest cities in America with a skyline of skimpy skyscrapers as high as a paltry 10-12 stories and residential buildings (mostly overpriced condos) topping out at 4 to 5 stories high. What’s left behind is for the average Portlander given short shrift to enjoy the city’s other attribute, views of and proximity to the water in a city known as The Peninsula, which means being surrounded on three sides by water. You’d never know it.
That has changed with the opening of Luke’s Lobster at the end of Portland Pier in the heart of downtown Portland. It has stunning views of the harbor being mere inches away from the water’s edge. It has navigated the Byzantine zoning laws that rule what’s commonly known as the working waterfront (which is more precisely the heart of the working waterfront on the western end of Commercial Street). And it handled it brilliantly and beautifully.
The dock, the pier and Luke’s at the water’s edge at the end of Portland Pier
While some lucky few can enjoy water views from newly constructed condos across from the water or in the two architecturally deficient apartment buildings on the Eastern Prom, this is really our only opportunity to dine on the water—real waterfront—not some busman’s holiday view of the inner harbor replete with boat fuel staining the water or resolute fisherman who’ve kept our waterfront from being developed in a sensible way that would give every facet of life some lift with the scent and sight of the ocean and still keep our working waterfront alive for all.
The fate of Portland’s waterfront is at stake as the city council seems bent on bowing to pressure that will limit how the docks can be redeveloped–rebuilt to save them–helped by waterfront retail like restaurants that could make this possible with economic stimulus. Some citizens want to keep our grimy past alive–quaint like feral winds–because it’s deemed charming.
The dining deck at the water’s edge
In other cities the waterfront is the crown jewel. Think of Boston Harbor, or the river frontages in New York along the Hudson or East rivers where some of the most expensive real estate in the world exists. Or consider views of Central Park from Fifth Avenue, Central Park West or Riverside Drive that offer double views of park and river. Here in Ye Olde Portland we have Park Avenue across from the bucolic Deering Oaks Park where 3-story nondescript residential buildings line the park-front boulevard.
First floor dining area for casual dining, order at the front desk and pick a seat
We should take to the streets proudly that we finally have a restaurant such as Luke’s that offers both visitor and local the right to look eastward to the water. Stand up high enough on Luke’ s dining deck and you can see Portugal.
Even if Luke’s served just nettles and fish nets it would be worth the culinary trip to go there. Fortunately its food is worthy. Of course go soon because as soon as the summer tourist season is in full flush forget about getting into Luke’s easily.
Upstairs dining room with table service
I’ve only been once, on Thursday afternoon for lunch and was duly impressed that they have uniformed parking attendants that greet you, dressed in neat tan jackets to direct you to about 15 parking places (free) on the dock. Just like the fabulous fine dining pier-front Scales, next door, being able to park at the restaurant is fantastic.
Luke’s is meant to be a lobster pound. While it doesn’t’ pretend to offer dining in the rough as at its wonderful lobster pound in Tenant’s Harbor (used to be Cod’s End, one of my favorite places for lobster, fried clams, etc.). And that’s all there is: crab, shrimp, clams and lobster rolls, fries or potato chips, sides like Cole slaw, whole lobster dinners—the usual. Luke’s Lobster is a purveyor company that harvests and sells shellfish with the catch coming from areas along out coastline. Luke’s has some 28 shops around the country, and Portland’s effort is the largest and most noteworthy of them all.
It’s about time.
I’ve only been once and enjoyed a classic crab roll with chips (Cape Cod chips) and it was just fine. I’ll report back when I’ve sampled the rest of the menu of fried clams, boiled lobster and more.
Classic crab roll with chips and pickle
Places some 50 to 100 miles away from Porland like Bagaduce Lunch in Brooksville , Five Islands, Beal’s or Thurston’s, Miller’s, et al, are all fabulous lobster pounds in the rough. But now we can enjoy almost as much right in our own back yard.
