Of all the new restaurant openings of 2015 few have achieved such solid footing as Terlingua. And they’ve achieved this even without adding the millennial menu essential, quinoa in all its guises. Rather it’s essentially a barbecue joint. But that doesn’t begin to tell what it does so well beyond lunch and dinner (see past reviews). Stage left enter their Sunday brunch. I had it for the first time this weekend and enjoyed one of the best examples of the otherwise ubiquitous eggs Benedict.
At Terlingua both the bar and dining area are busy at brunch
While the universe of BBQ fare is decent enough in our northern clime, Terlingua does it with a thorough Tex-Mex flavor profile. That also means lots of red and green chili dishes, spice and gutsy smoked meats and fish; another dish that I’m anxious to try is their chicken mole, Mexico’s grand sauce that takes many hours to make. Terlingua gives it an 18-hour simmer, and it’s frequently found on their Sunday dinner menu as a special. Call ahead to see if it’s being offered.
Getting back to dear old eggs Benedict Terlingua style, it rode high with two perfectly poached eggs set atop a green chili spiked biscuit (very tender and flaky), topped with big, tender, smoky chunks of pulled pork and laced with a citrusy Hollandaise.
Poahed eggs over chili biscuit, smoked pulled pork and citrus Hollandaisse’ bloody Mary
Even the bloody Mary held some interest with the glass rimmed in chili powder, adding a subtle spiciness.
Those eggs were cooked just right, runny enough to wrap luxuriously around the crusty biscuit and smoked pulled pork. I wouldn’t have minded a side of hash or pork belly beans, but this was very fine eating on its own.
Though Sunday brunch is not yet listed on their website, it begins at 10 AM and offers such other brunch entrees as French toast with honey butter and caramelized bananas; chilaquiles (local corn tortilla strips in ranchero sauce); smoked brisket over sweet potato hash with peppers, onions, eggs and Tabasco Hollandaise and pan-fried trout with spicy bacon jam and eggs.
Terlingua, 52 Washington Ave., Portland, ME 207-808-8502 www.terlingua.me
Rating: Wonderful brunch: Great big helpings, gutsy fare with just the right smoke and spice
Ambiance: plain and simple, makes you feel as though you’re in a local joint in Austin, Texas
Service: very attentive
Bar: full with great cocktails that feature killer margaritas and other zesty drinks
Seating: at bar or table service
Parking: street
$$$: moderate—brunch entrees in the $13-$14 range; figure about $25 per person with drink, tax and tip
