Put it in a larger city—say New York, Chicago, LA or even along the cobblestones of haute dining in Boston—Portland’s Cheevitdee (which means “good life”) could easily qualify as a trophy-food restaurant. But in Portland, where such matters are (relatively speaking) more down to earth, ingrained as farm-to-table panache–seven of us descended upon this Old Port newbie unprepared for a lunch that was ineradicably memorable. This is Thai cooking that’s sensual and elegant.
Cheevitdee’s cool interiors overlooking Boothby Square in the Old Port
Cheevitdee, which opened last month in the former Dunckin Donuts space on Fore Street in the Old Port, displays a level of Thai cooking that doesn’t exist anywhere else in Portland. Owners Nuttaya Suriyayanyong and Darit Chandpen (the latter owns Mi Sen noodle bar on Congress Street) are part of a family operation that cook and serve this stunning food. They have a certain credo, too. It must be healthy. Nothing is fried but steamed instead. All the food is largely locally sourced. All this adds up to a level of purity that is essential in a town where restaurants strive so hard to be unique.
Shrimp and tofu shumai and shrimp bites with lemon grass and soy
The shower of dumplings and bites at the start of our lunch included fillings like shrimp and tofu shumai, spicy shrimp with cucumber and lemongrass and skewers of lemongrass grilled chicken; the kitchen sent out a crepe like egg roll filled with shrimp, tofu, bean sprouts and peanuts, light and delicate.
Lemongrass chicken skewers
Entrees were equally exciting. Among the seven of us, several needed gluten-free dishes, which is easily accomplished on this menu. We ordered three different plates: Ping Ngob (grilled salmon curry); Pad Prik Khing (chicken curry) and the Kanom Buang Yourn (shrimp crepe).
Entrees (clockwise): shrimp crepe; salmon curry in banana leaf and chicken with riceberry
The grilled salmon curry barely describes the monumental dish that’s presented. The salmon, coated in a soothing curry, is a huge piece of fish, set atop Napa cabbage, purple rice berry and basil wrapped in banana leaf and steamed. The mix of flavors and texture are very complex with a nutty, curry profile punctuated by the flavors of basil and chopped cabbage. Those of us who had the dish were overwhelmed by its elegant presentation and flavors.
The chicken curry—not a traditional soup-like curry dish—was equally impressive; the mound of rice, or purple rice berry with its complement of steamed vegetables was delicate yet loaded with flavor.
The crepe, a larger version of what we had as an appetizer, held its exotic stance equal to the other dishes.
Curried salmon in banana leaf unwrapped
At lunch prices are high for the typical downtown Old Port noontime crowd and that may explain why the restaurant was not busier. Besides our large group only a few other tables for two were occupied.
Entrees range from $15 to $22; soups, salads and appetizers span the $7 to $`$12 range. But the same menu and the same prices prevail at the dinner hour, which seem more line. The interiors are spare and elegant like the food and it’s a definite destination any time of day. As time goes on perhaps the restaurant will develop a lunchtime menu. But either way, don’t miss this remarkable dining experience.
Cheevitdee Restaurant, 363 Fore St., Portland, ME 207-747-4795 www. ww.cheevitdeeportlandme.com
Rating: Easily rates 4 stars or more.
Ambiance: A very cool, elegant space in the heart of the Old Port
Seating: For two or larger groups, tables are set nicely apart; bar seating too
Price: moderately expensive, especially at lunch
Service: careful and thoughtful
Parking: on street
