Sometimes the perfect dinner comes along unexpectedly. That was the case at Lolita. After trying to get into the latest sweep of new restaurants, finding each full to capacity, I headed out of the culinary congestion up to Munjoy Hill. Parking is always difficult there (time for that to change, with the senseless No Parking signs gone) I luckily found a spot in front of the restaurant.

Lolita was nearly full, with one seat at the bar. I ordered a perfect gimlet (often called The Golden Gimlet—and one of the few bars that still stocks Rose’s Lime Juice) and looked at the specials on the board.

They were so appealing that I selected all three: John’s River Oysters, smoked bass and rapini toasts and lamb lasagna. The oysters had a bracing mignonette with finely chopped shallots and what tasted like a Champagne vinaigrette; two crostini each held a creamy spread of the smoked fish and luscious sautéed rapini. The lamb lasagna was a simple devise filled with gamey braised lamb held together with pasta sheets that were crisp but soft within. Dessert was a fruit crumble with perfect scoops of housemade ice cream. The final touch of an espresso made in their vintage espresso machine was a great ending to an exceedingly comforting meal.

Lolita, 90 Congress St., Portland, ME 207-775-5652 www.lolita-portland.com

Rating: small-plate perfection within this bustling bistro in the heart of the stylish Munjoy Hill

Service: very attentive

Seating: cozy tables and bar dining

Parking: street parking is difficult but not impossible; Uber is a good choice

$$$: moderately expensive, or about $50-plus per person with 3 to 4 dishes with wine or cocktails