When I bought a container of Maine blueberries last week from Kay Fowler of Springbrook Farm in Cumberland she said, “You must make that blueberry cake; the recipe is on the table.”  As if I needed further inducement she added: “It’s the lightest cake you’ll ever have.”

Blueberry cake

Blueberry cake

Kay always has recipe cards printed out at her post at the Cumberland Farmers Market and at her farm store on Greely Road in Cumberland.

There it was: “Melt-in-Your-Mouth Blueberry Cake.”  I took the recipe sheet and made it that night for dessert.

Not that I doubted Fowler’s advice, but the cake was a masterpiece of simplicity, showing off our precious Maine berries delightfully. And the texture was all feathery lightness.

One of the reasons for its great texture is that stiffly beaten, sugared egg whites are folded into the batter as the final step, producing these pleasing squares.  Another highlight is the candy-like crust that forms on the top while baking because you sprinkle on a light coating of sugar before putting it in the oven.

The recipe is from Marjorie Standish in her cookbook, Cooking Down East.  She was for 25 years the voice of Maine food in her column “Cooking Down East,” which appeared in the Maine Sunday Telegram until she retired in 1973.  Those were the days when local food was simple and wholesome–all those stews, chowders and soups; big plain cakes, feather light yeast rolls, brambles and hermits in the cookie jar.

The recipe calls for shortening but I used butter and I think it offers better flavor, though shortening would lighten up this cake even more.